That has the look of a part that is being printed quickly to increase throughput. It looks like there were no supports which would need manual post-processing and take extra time. The fairly thick layer thickness is actually good for strength as well as print speed. The squigglies are an indication that the printer is being pushed beyond the print speeds that it’s really good at in the interests of overall print time.
Nothing really wrong with it, if it works, but it’s not going to win any prizes either.
You might have to wait a little longer. We’re all in the Houston area which is currently in the crosshairs of two Category 1 hurricanes (60 - 70 mph winds). Something that hasn’t happened since the mid 1900’s. It usually means lots of flooding where JTech’s office is and in the general area.
With two storms a day apart, the prognosticators are having trouble coming up with a decent forecast except the one that says, “Keep a chain nearby because its going to be a turd floater!”
my take on this is not relevant since it’s designed for 3D printing, however I would probably follow the same approach if I had to mill one: make two "U"s that would slide on the side of the router mount, in the front and back of the router, and a third piece to hold them together and allow one to attach the remaining 3D-printed part you have (that has the magnets)
I’ve had a cheap Ender 3 stuck in its box for 2 years! maybe its time (not sure if the Ender 3 is up to the challenge). I take inspiration from your design. I will need to accommodate my dust boot. I’ll report back … unless its crap of course.
I use lightburn exclusively on my CO2 laser and love it. (In fact I wish CC would take a few notes out of their book) Unfortunately there are no presets as far as power and speed go, but if you have the settings dialled in you can add that cut to the library and those settings are only ever one click away from that point on.
Lightburn can be used on anything from small diode lasers to 150w industrial CO2 machines, for them to test and add presets would take a huge amount of work
Wow, that’s a shocker, yes like @neilferreri also interested in passes and settings. Edit: I’m not on Instagram.
Was that with the air assist?
I’m assuming that’s with the standard lens? Have you seen this; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pY_7MC39qCY.
When it was just the Ortur for me I did order a G8 lens and it arrived today from your side of the pond.
Edit:I’m still to get my act together and do some tests, the Ortur I purchased is vapour ware at this time and my JTech is waiting for me to fix it a mount, other work pressures at the min.
Yes it’s not fast…5 min start to finish with almost no top burn (except where I forgot to turn on the air for the first few mm)
Edit (ADD), But since it is a separate machine, (and completely self contained, using my old 7" Win-Tablet), it can chug along all day long without affecting my Shapeoko output…right?
Still, it did it. I’ve seen quite a few Ortur vids and 6mm ply is the thickest I’ve seen. bodes well for lighter stuff.
Instagram, yeah I’m way too paranoid for anything with a Zuck(er) and a berg in it
Another great feature of having a standalone laser (and not one that occurred to before today) as opposed to the J tech Shapeoko attachment, is that you can put the whole thing outside (Out of the shop) when you are cutting something that produces noxious fumes…Because boy does it produce smoke. E.G. Painted surfaces or Form. Today’s project:
It’s six layers of 1/2" 2.2 lb poly (Case) sheets and a top layer of 1/8" EVA (for looks), and everything is glued together with 3M #77 contact cement Yes, the laser did a great job of cleanly cutting them. I took a photo of the layout and then imported it to Carbide Create and made a SVG, which I imported into Lightburn.
PS Not all the layers are the same since different items are not the same thickness.
