Just started using my Shapeoko Pro5 with MeshCam & Carbide 3D Pro & designed in SolidWorks. Between the two I have learned much.
I what to thank all that put up with all my questions on this forum and gave me the help so kindly.
All the help and answers to my endless questions help me make my first project with very little mistakes, I did manage to break one 1/8" bit, my fault.
So I would like to show you the fruits of what your help let me accomplish. Its for work, they need a way to hold a cable harness and pcb so the assembler can place 15 wires into the thru holes and solder them. So I designed this fixture and machined it on my Shapeoko Pro5 using both MeshCam and Carbide 3D Pro. I did have to make a few separate files in order to make the part etc. Drill, pocket, conture, also note the two tooling dowel holes in the pocket so the part can be flipped over and machined.
Love it, nice job. When I worked at an electronics manufacturer, we had a 3d printer, and it was running constantly, making jigs and parts to help build products. The items that come out of a 3d printer are always a little less âsolidâ due to how it layers plastic, but that was offset by the cheap reproducibility. Your jig looks like it should stand up to a lot of abuse.
One option for parts which are 3D printed at 100% infill in plastics which allow for it is to place the part in a pan of fine salt so that it is fully supported, then bake in an oven at a suitable temperature for a suitable time.
REF: 3D Printed parts are not Thermoset plastics they are Theromplastics and will soften in heat. Thermoplastics can/will melt under heat after curing while Thermoset plastics retain their form and stay solid under heat once cured.
