Hi Guys
In the resources and topics i found about that, the eccentric nuts on older machines are accessible: Tightening Eccentric Nuts - Carbide 3D
On My Shapeoko 4 XXL the nuts are covered by the linear rails.
Do I really need to dismantle the whole Z axis just to tighten the nuts, or am i overseeing something ?
Thank you 
The video you linked is an SO3. It might have even been a belt drive. However if you have a Z-Plus on an SO4 only the bottom v-wheels have the eccentrics. The top ones are fixed. So you only adjust the bottom ones to capture your Z-Plus on the gantry. The same is true for the side gantry v-wheels, only the bottom ones are adjustable. So I went to the c3d site and here is a picture with the Z-Plus with the red circle around the eccentric you need to adjust. There are two of them the other is on the other side of the Z-Plus. If you machine is different then take a picture and post it.
The above picture is an so3 I think so I looked at the link for the assembly and look at this video about the 7:00 minute mark. They have not yet assembled the Z-Plus to the plate and then they install the z-plus. So if you cannot fit a wrench into the space behind the linear rail then you will need to remove the z-Plus to gain access to check/tighten the eccentric nuts.
Winston Moy is the presenter and although he is an expert I disagree with when he says to snug up the button head screws. He is just tightening the button head screw and my disagreement is that you should be holding the eccentric with a wrench. By just tightening the bolt without holding the eccentric with a wrench can cause the eccentric to not be adjusted properly. The eccentric will move as the bolt is tightened and holding it with a wrench is the best way to preserve the adjustment and keep the bolt tight.
Hey man thank you very much for the quick reply.
I have attached a few pictures, you can see well that the excenter is not accessible on my machine. I agree with you that I have to adjust this with a wrench or a nut to tighten the wheels. the screw is only to lock. Should my machine look like this or is this a mistake? If the machine is supposed to be like this, there must be a reason for it, everything else would be an epic misconstruction?
The problem would then have to have all 4xxl users, wtf, that can not be.
Thanks again really great how to get help here
I have an SO3 with hdz. So it is apples and oranges comparison. Talk to support but unless a thin wrench is able to fit behind the z-plus you will need to remove the z axis to adjust eccentric nut. There are 6bolts holding it on.
To check if the v-wheels are tight just grab the z axis and wiggle it. It should feel tight. If there is play you need to adjust it.
Here is a pic of my hdz. The base plate is much thicker so I can easily adjust.
thanks again for the great help man, i think i’ll ask support before i completely disassemble the part, but i currently see no other way than to take off the rails. i just don’t understand why the whole thing is not like the older machines.
You may have misspoke but do not take the rails off. Take the whole Z-Plus off by removing the 3 screws on each side. Talk to support but the job is really not too bad. You will likely need to disconnect the inductive switch and the Z axis motor. Otherwise it is pretty simple. Putting it back you should not loose tram because the screws fit pretty securely. If you want you could put a few witness marks along the sides and top with a marker to make sure you put it back in the same place.
I agree with @gdon_2003 - I think you remove the screws on the side to remove the whole assembly and get to the eccentric nuts.
That matches the assembly guide pages 28 - 36:
When assembling, you tighten the eccentric nuts, then install the main Z carriage on top.
Ah yes of course, thanks for the tip that makes sense of course. And thanks for the pictures, really great that strangers here just take the time to help, really great
This topic was automatically closed after 30 days. New replies are no longer allowed.
