I’m looking for some advice on safely transporting my Shapeoko 5 Pro (4x4) during an upcoming local move. I’m a bit hesitant to let the movers handle it, so I plan to take on the task myself. I want to avoid any damage or misalignment, and I thought I’d reach out to see if anyone here has some experience or tips for moving a machine this size.
My Game Plan
Remove the spindle, Z-axis, and gantry: I don’t want the gantry to accidentally roll over the machined straight edge, so I’ll definitely be taking this part off.
Secure all cables: I’ll be using a combination of zip ties, gaff tape, and padding to keep everything neat and avoid any strain on connectors.
Use original foam packaging: I still have all the original foam for each piece from shipping, but I don’t have the boxes. I’m planning to place the gantry in foam and secure it in my truck bed.
Transport Options
My Truck Bed: I think the gantry could fit, but the overall machine might be too big, especially with the Kreg table it’s mounted on.
Flatbed Trailer: I have a friend with a flatbed trailer. I’m considering towing the XY assembly and slats intact while keeping the gantry separately secured in my truck bed.
Concerns
Vibrations during the move: I’m debating whether to remove the slats to minimize vibrations along the way. Any suggestions?
Ratchet Straps and Moving Blankets: I plan to use moving blankets underneath the assembly and secure it with ratchet straps. Is this overkill or a good idea?
Previous Experience
I’ve already disassembled and reassembled the machine once before when I moved out here to the West Coast from the East Coast, including the full 64" x 64" Kreg table. I’d like to avoid that level of disassembly again if possible, but I will do it if there’s a serious risk of damage.
Additional Questions
Has anyone transported the 4x4 Shapeoko 5 before? How did you secure it, and were there any issues along the way?
Would it be safe to transport the Kreg table upside down, ratchet strapped into the back of a small U-Haul?
Route Details
It’s almost a straight shot from my current location—30-40 minutes on paved highway roads.
I’m really hoping to find a balance between safety and not spending hours disassembling the entire thing. If anyone from Carbide or with experience thinks it’s a must, I’ll do it. My priority is to keep my ~$5K machine safe!
It all really depends on what the vibration level is. I would say you can really keep most of it together if you plan to do a full maintenance before operation. I’d check every screw and anything that does come loose Loctite with a strength based off if it needs to come off easily in the future prior to operation, check all of your HG15 blocks and make sure none of the oiler screws are starting to come out as they really do like to fall out once the vactra makes its way into the threads. Stuff is basically acts like mycelium and spreads across every surface at a few micron thickness so once it starts it wants to come out. If they do start, loctite 565 is probably the best solution just keep it away from the leading thread. Double check squareness/alignment and adjust if necessary and consider resurfacing your waste board if you’re worried about thousandths. Cords wont matter much if they’re semi secure and the machine is being transported on its own raised off the ground 2-3" and secured. (Could use a rubber mat with a grid made of 2x4 just something that will stop it from sliding) could block it off as well whatever you think the drive will be like. Also securing each axis from moving with either zap straps or something cushioned is an idea.
Maybe i’m being overly cautious, but I’m afraid of the gantry rolling forward and losing that machine edge, which Carbide stressed in the installation to not let happen.
It would ride on a 120" W x 12’ Long flatbed trailer from neighborhood > highway speeds > neighborhood.
I need to re-oil my machine anyway after this move, so I’m definitely going to want to do a good lookover once it finds its new home next month.
So am i reading this right?
The vactra oil that we are supposed to apply to the ballscrews as basic maintenance, will find a way into other parts and force them out?
Yes but the linear blocks are also filled with vactra and enough so that it’s a nuisance when a screw falls out (usually oriented up and down only do this) and it leaks straight down and leaves a nice slick on every surface and some oil absorbed into the wasteboard.
The other oil isn’t in enough quantity to do anything.