Tramming issue - 1/4" Gap between Y2 from plate and X-axis plate

I’m having an issue squaring my machine. I did purchase my Shapeoko 3 XXL used and no mention of issues were ever disclosed to me about squaring. I’ve decided to do a full squaring according to the assembly directions and replace the belts and wheels. I have a 1/4" gap between the Y2 rail front plate and the X rail side plate.

  1. The black base frame is within 1/32" measuring the diagonals.
  2. The distance between the Y1 and Y2 rails measured from the back and front are spot on.
  3. I loosened the x-plate bolts (4 per side) and loosened the Y1 & Y2 front and back plate bolts (16 total). I moved the gantry so the x-plates contacted the Y1 & Y2 front plates. I clamped the Y1 and X (see photo) plates and the other side of the X-rail shows a 1/4" gap between the Y2 and X plates. I can pull it closed but it springs back once released. If I clamp the Y2 and X plates and then tighten the bolts according to instructions, once the clamp is removed the axis springs back and the gap re-emerges. The gap is present if I move the x-axis to the back it just is on the Y1 side.
    Looks like something is bent. Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    Steve

Have you checked to see if your X rail is straight with a straight edge?

Yes, I just did that and it ‘seems’ straight but my straight edge isn’t the best either. No matter how I tighten the x-plate bolts the gap re-emerges. I tighten the left side first then the right side first. It didn’t seem to matter. I do think the x-axis is bent. I removed the belts and anything that can provide a force and that didn’t make any difference either.

It is likely you will need to loosen the endplates of the X beam and insert shims between the beam and endplates to make it align better.
A good option for shims is to purchase a couple of sets of blade type feeler gauges and use appropriate thickness blades to shim with.
After getting the X beam square, be sure to re-check how your v-wheels ride on the two Y beams, you may need to adjust those as well…

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I tried the feeler gauge technique. I thought it might have made a difference until I slid the gantry to the back of the machine and the gap re-emerged. I suspect if shimming is involved it’s going to take shimming both sides. I need to locate my other set of feeler gauges.
Thanks for your input.
Steve

See these threads from way back. I had the same issue. Shims in the correct places will make it square.

And you’re missing a V-wheel, unless you took it off…

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Just disconnected the left side plate, and found some foil shims from one of the previous owners (I’m owner #3). Removed the sneaky shim, still had to do some shimming but now it is almost perfect, front to back. Lesson learned, look for sneaky shims. It wasn’t that obvious, it slipped out as I was removing the side plate.

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I took it off as I was diagnosing potential sources of error since I replaced my wheels yesterday.
Thanks,
Steve

Thanks for the information, Scott. I donated an old feeler gauge set to the cause and I got it shimmed!

FWIW,
Once you get the few nuances “squared” away, (squaring, grounding and work table flex) I think you will find that to be a very accurate and reliable machine.
Enjoy!!

Thanks again for your assistance! Ironically, I just addressed the grounding issue a few weeks ago. In my spare time, I’ve been learning the cam functions of Fusion 360. No lack of challenges!

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