Tramming the HDM?

I’ve just finished setting up the electronics and enclosure for my HDM, and I just need to calibrate it before running. The checklist that came with the HDM says that it was pre-trammed from the factory. I’ve got a good amount of confidence that the machine would be pretty well trammed, but I do still want to tram it myself.
Should I tram directly on the MDF slats with a sheet of glass, or take the slats off and use the aluminum bars on the base and a sheet of glass for a level surface?

Thanks

I would do it on the slats. That is going to be your work surface, not the rails. Then surface the slats

The proper method would be to surface the area that you will put the glass on, or shim it to machine level. Then tram. If you tram to an unleveled surface… you’re not tramming. :slight_smile:

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That’s what I was worried about. So I’ll have to surface the MDF 2 times?

Ideally, yes. You surface it the first time to establish the XY plane of the machine. Note the edges of each pass as it cuts & you should see (or feel) where it needs to be adjusted. Once it’s adjusted give it a very light surfacing to get it smooth. Unless it was really smooth to begin with.

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That or put a pin in the collet and level at the corners of the glass using shims. I actually have a dedicated piece of MDF that I clamp down, level, and use to tram.

Thank you for the replies, I’m planning to surface the slats but noticed that it would leave a lip on both sides of the slats. Do you guys think it would be better to surface a MDF wasteboard instead of the slats? I figure that would be the better way to go, except for when I need to mount an aluminum plate directly on to the slats.

Correct, whether one ads a supplemental spoilboard seems to devolve to one consideration — does one use stock which is so large that the lip interferes.

I surface thus on my Pro, and whenever I need to cut sheet goods on it, have to loosen all the filler strips, rotate them so that they can have the sections which are too tall reached, cut those down to below the working surface, then rotate things back and resurface before I can cut.

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