Totally a Noob here, Just got my 883 Pro last week. Did a bunch of test cuts last week without surfacing the wasteboard and a few of the FR-4 parts popped out and were damaged by the cutter. Can someone point me in the right direction
When machining friable (“easily crumbled”) materials (e.g. FR4, Garolite, wood, MDF, carbon composite) particles are generated that are
EXTREMELY dangerous to one’s health.
Are FR4 PCB's really that dangerous to mill on the nomad (because of the glass fibre)?
I ordered the Nomad 883 and I live in a small dorm room on campus. I would like to have it in my room so I can use it whenever I want and keeping an eye on it in case anything goes wrong. However, I am not sure if there is any potential health hazard linked to having it in my room.
I am concerned about the dust and powder produced. I understand that wood, fiberglass and other materials alike produce fine dust during machining, so I am not considering machining those in my room. But I wonder if…
There are many postings about PCB making that one can learn from. Here are a few:
I just wanted to share my first Nomad project doing PCB isolation milling. Thanks to everyone in the Carbide 3D community that shared their experiences to the forum.
Thank you Marc Liyanage, your demo was a big help.
Milling PCBs was one of my main reasons for getting a Nomad. I finally found some time to learn how to use Eagle and the related tools and mill my first boards. I am very happy with the results and once again very impressed by the Nomad, especially its precision.
This post provides some results and lessons learned from my first two test projects.
As preparation I milled down the wasteboard so it was perfectly flat. It was pretty close out of the box, but not perfect. The milling…
I came across this workflow:
Love it, especially the autoleveling trick with bCNC.
How can I use bCNC with Nomad ? Can I connect my Nomad to the Linux running bCNC ? My understanding is that the Nomad will understand a subset of gcode (carbide motion does the translation for missing commands). Is this right ?
One of the difficulties is ensuring that the PCB is held flat. There are some good solutions available.
We have a bit about workholding on the Shapeoko wiki:
http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Workholding which may be of interest.
In particular you may want to buy (or make something?) like to:
To answer your specific question, the spoiler can be machined flat with CC by setting the stock size equal to the bed - 8 x 8. Depth would the depth of the spoiler board. Z0 on top.
Now draw a pocket over the entire surface and make it 0.03-0.05" deep. Machine with 40% (diameter) step over using a square end end mill. Time passes and dust flies. Now the surface of the spoiler is flat and square to the machine.
Thank You all !! I got it done.