So, when I read the forums, I see everyone says to halve the angle of a V-bit when adding it to CC. However, when I go to add one in CC451, it uses the term “Included Angle” and the stock Carbide3d bits show full angles.
Can I assume that you should now use the full angle? So, a .5" 90 degree V will go in as 90 degrees?
I’m having a hell of a time with v-carving text. I have tried different fonts, different sizes of text and using both full angle and half angle in the tool library and the text always ends up messed up. Most notably the bit goes way too deep. I guess I’m just trying to tick off possible issues one at a time so I don’t confuse myself more than I already am.
Newer versions have changed from the taper angle used in older versions to the more typical nominal angle in current versions.
The Carbide 3D #301 90 degree endmill is now entered as a 90 degree endmill, rather than as an endmill with a 45 degree taper.
Beauty. So, I’m correct in entering the full angle. One down, 45 other confusions to go.
Matt, you’ll have to elaborate some on what problem you have with Vcarving text. That was the easiest thing I’ve learned, so perhaps if you explain the situation will change quickly.
Hi Tex. My bits seem to plunge too deeply no matter what I do. I have 20, 60 and 90 degree bits and have tried extremely narrow fonts and bold fonts. One bit in particular, a 90 degree .5" wide bit goes too deeply no matter what I do so the letters all run together. I thought it might be because I can’t put in a flute length, but I’m not sure that has anything to do with it.
Perhaps I need to try a 120 degree bit? I’m not doing really large text. As little as .3 inches tall, Aerial narrow and Arial.
can you post an example C2D file? makes it easier to see
note that (unless you do special things), a 90 degree bit will cut basically half as deep as the letters of the text are wide, that’s the basic trig math of that.
you can do special things and basically limit the max depth by putting a “flat area” in the middle of larger shapes… this may or may not be the visual effect you want to achieve
Oh, sure. Sorry about that.
My son graduated from Air Force BMT and received his first challenge coin. I want to make a plaque for him to display the coin in. That’s the big circle in the middle of the USAF logo. The logo will just be pocketed with an ⅛" endmill. I’ll use ¼" for the circles. I have bit changes working great. I just need to figure out the text.
Coin.c2d (685.0 KB)
Thanks! This is one video I haven’t seen yet.
hmm other than very conservative F&S and long cut times…
there doesn’t seem to be anything unexpected there.
(there’s some easy things that will reduce cut times a lot)
you have set your stock to 3/4"… which would allow for very wide letter elements… but yours are not large at all
(as an aside, I end up using “Cambria Bold” a lot with text V carving, but there’s nothing wrong with arial)
when you say “way too deep”, in the simulations I’ve tried it seems fine to my eye… what is your expectation for depth ?
I just noticed that the text tool path is set to the wrong bit. I did that to see if it would make a difference. I typically name the tool path for the tool I want to use.
So, it’s not just me. That’s good to know. Could I fool it by telling it the thickness is only ¼"?
Mostly I just want the text to be recognizable. It seems like the bit is going too deep and cutting through the edges of the letters.
that could be an issue in zeroing.
V bits are very sensitive to being zero’d accurately
I have the touch probe and use that to zero the Z axis. That’s it! I put the probe on the corner of the piece instead of on top!
Crap! Thank you Arjan. That must be exactly what I’m doing wrong. All these fine details.
ok so some suggestions to reduce your total cut time
- your retract height (in the “sprocket” menu) is set very conservative, vcarving goes a lot faster with that reduced to say 0.08"
- you will get a much faster v-carve time if you do each of the lines of words as a separate toolpath (this is a bit of a quirk in carbide create)
- you have your plunge speed set pretty slow, suitable for very hard wood. if your wood is on the softer side you can set that a bit faster
Just be careful about setting the retract height. If you are using tall clamps then the side of the router could run into a clamp. If you are using cam clamps or flat clamps then the retract height can be set lower if they are at the same height of the work piece or lower than the work piece. Some people on the forum are fans of the painter tape and super glue method of securing the work. You lay down a layer of painters tape on the spoilboard. Then a layer on the bottom of the work piece. Then put super glue on the spoil board layer and stick your part to the superglue covered tape. When you are ready to remove the work piece the tape will just peel off. Be careful to put the superglue where you keep the piece or rather the outside of the piece stuck down. Do not just put glue in the center. If you cut all the way through the outside of the piece will come loose and may go flying when you cut through.
Thank you for this too. I will try this out tomorrow after work.
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