Hey everyone - I have been asked to carve a small Boy Scout shield into 1 of these https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Painting-Surfaces/Wood/Walnut-Hollow-Basswood-Country-Round---Large/p/23693?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImIO5qPer4AIVBNvACh3ZtAkMEAQYASABEgJQm_D_BwE
This is my first time working with basswood - I typically vCarve hardwoods or mdf. Made 2 attempts so far (back and front) and it comes out very fuzzy. The carving is too small to pick or sand out the fuzzy parts. I plan on picking up a second piece and making another attempt. Any suggestions? What feeds/speeds and dewalt rpm settings would be appropriate?
I’d start with what the wiki has. Though it looks like the information was based on the dremel/shapeoko 2.
I’d maybe go with 4 on the dewalt? Not sure what your speeds/feeds were previously.
Depth Increment: 1mm
Cut Feedrate: 710mm/min (conservative)
End mill: 2 flute .125 end mill
Speed: 25,000 r.p.m.
Spindle: Dremel 4000
These measurements work for other soft hardwoods too, like Alder and may be a good starting point for softwoods.
It might also be worth checking the defaults of softwood in Carbide Create and use that as a good starting point.
I’m using aspire - I’ll have to check out carbide create settings
Bit I’m using is a 60 degree whiteside https://www.woodcraft.com/products/whiteside-1550-60-v-groove-cnc-router-bit-1-4-sh-1-2-d-x-7-16-p-x-2-ol?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm8Ogl6es4AIVB7XACh1IQgYbEAQYASABEgKoEvD_BwE
Both look about the same.
The problem is, basswood, while good for carving by hand, isn’t well-suited to carving with a router which isn’t aware of the grain structure.
- simplify the design as much as you can
- use the most acute / longest V endmill the stock thickness allows for
- consider leaving a roughing clearance and spraying with a finish which will harden the fibers and hold them in place for a finishing pass
If it’s at all possible, use a harder, finer-grained hardwood — rock maple works well.
I have had luck with fuzzier woods by doing similar to what will I will run the toolpath, leaving the part place put a coat of poly/shellac/varnish (I use poly) let it dry then run the path again.
all the fuzz usually cuts when it’s hardened
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