So much good advice here! I agree that it would be prudent to get something ‘good enough’ set up and then see how things go. Your setup is really great with the machine controls and everything, seriously good stuff. As it is right now, my plan is to light the bed with some side/down firing strips due to restrictions to my table. The mounting will be above and to the sides of the unit, but I plan on making some angled mounting strips that will ideally fire the light at a 45 degree angle to help alleviate some of the shadows from a purely horizontal projected setup.
Loving all the others as well. My thought for now is to possibly make a mobile box similar to what @gdon_2003 is using but I can move it to wherever I’m sitting at the front of the machine until I determine what I want for a permanent setup. But keep 'em coming!
Be aware that the bitrunner v2 has spindle control aka “oh shit!” button built in. But it does not stop the X,Y,Z motion, just the router from spinning.
only used it once or twice in the past six months), as well as four individual switches - one for each of the Router, the CNC itself, the LED lights and the PC (although its a Fusion Tablet and switches to battery in any case).
My knock-off Bit Zero and wireless keyboard sit in 3d printer holders right there.
Also, on the Shapeoko table I have mounted a hook for the remote that controls dust collection, which is overhead (20x20 extruded aluminum and 3d printed brackets/clamps) and then drops to the back of the table to the main pipe, which I swap occasionally with my table saw and route table.
Also have a desk lamp rigged with super bright led panels, as well as LED strips along both sides of the machine, and the bottom of the gantry. Can never have too much light in a shop!
Love that monitor you have there. I have several larger monitors I have been considering for use attached to my laptop but they may be a bit large. Can you provide info(*Brand/model) on the white one you have.
@Gerryattrick In the picture is actually a MacBook Air laptop, you can just about see the keyboard below the screen. However, I have added a very similar screen to my setup, same physical size and resolution, so I can see the screen no matter where the Z-Axis is. There are various available, but the following link is the one I bought and am very pleased with it.
I’ve been through a couple of different versions. I have a 2015 machine and it was immediately apparent that I’d need a controller to clean things up. The first version did the trick. Later, I added a permanent laser and decided I’d make a new electronics enclosure. New enclosure has supplies for 24V for the controller, 12V for the laser and lighting and 5V for ancillaries and a little relay board. I also relocated the entire C3D controller board to the new enclosure. I made the most recent iteration so that all wires can be plugged in, nothing hanging off of it… All stop signals and some other misc stuff is routed through ethernet cables and terminated at the both ends with some breakout boards. Also have an hour counter for tracking brush life.
The entire CNC has an enclosure with gas shock lid and a monitor that sits on top.
This is my very no 1st post as I await my very 1st CNC
I went with the Shapeoko HDM and I’m concerned with all of the power distribution
From the circuit breakers to each dedicated receptacle
Distance wire gauge sizes limitations for a 110V option
I’ve noticed some videos where there seemed to be a power strip
Also enclosures?
Sounds as though this is recommended in most cases? True?
I don’t have any of the elaborate consoles as our Shapeoko fraternity brothers. I use a foot pedal I bought from Harbor Freight for around $15 and have it mounted right next to my work area. I even designed my own STOP sign and mounted it. I’ve used it many, many times and it works great.
Wow. Some really awesome panels. Is there a different thread that discusses the connections to the Shapeoko board? I’ve been wanting to add a big red stop button and this has finally motivated me to action. Thanks
The big red stop button should remove all power from both the shapeoko and the router, so there shouldn’t be any interfacing with the Shapeoko controller. The usecase that does require connecting something to the controller is using the “feedhold” function (example here)
Regarding the FH connection to the board, is Carbide ever going to consider selling a jumper connection to allow people to add their own FH buttons or perhaps a physical one distributed by Carbide?
I’m not in the know, but it would make sense indeed. They are halfway there with the nice BitSetter enabled button, so something similar would be cool.
