Hello! I’m got a 4 XXL about a month ago and I’m still learning how to use it. I’ve tried surfacing multiple pieces of stock on my CNC at different areas of the work surface with the same results with these ridges. I’m using a 1.5" surfacing bit from IDC. Any help would be appreciated - TIA!
This is on a piece of cherry.
Try tramming your machine as described in:
There are several things to try but as @WillAdams said tramming is likely your culprit. Decrease your stepover. On flattening boards I only take off 0.010" at a time. If your board is less flat than that you likely need to run it through a planner first.
Ridges that show up after flattening are caused by two different things. The router mount can be adjusted left right and shimming the router mount tilts your router front to back. So if your ridges are on the right left (X) direction you need to shim your router mount. If the ridges are on the front to back side (Y) then you need to adjust your router mount left/right. Both things can be happening so solve one and then the other. If shimming your router mount is necessary shimming with something like folded up alumniumn foil at the top moves the front of your bit down. Shimming at the bottom moves the front of the bit up. For the left/right most machines have the same eccentrics used for v-wheels. If you need to adjust them loosen the bolt slightly and use a wrench to move the eccentric. When done hold the wrench in place as you tighten the bolt or torque will further move your eccentric.
There are a lot of tools available to aid but just plain old trial and error is pretty fast and does not have any additional money or tools required.
For the front to back watch the bit and if the ridge is at the front side the back is lower than the front. The opposite is true if the ridge is at the back. Similar are the Y direction watch the cut and if on the left side then the right side of your bit is lower than the left side and the opposite if the ridge is on the right.
When you get your machined trammed go over your entire spoilboard. Put pencil marks all over the spoilboard. Zero and take 0.010" off. If any pencil marks are left then jog down 0.010" and rezero Z. If it looks like you have some really low spots then zero on the low spots. Run your tramming tool path one more time and if all pencil marks are gone your spoilboard should be flat and ready to go. If some very small ridges are still there you have a decision to make. Either live with it or start over. The spoilboard is called that because it gets spoiled. You can achieve perfection but at what cost and time?
Wow - thanks for all the information and for taking the time write it, I really appreciate it! I’ll try out your suggestions. I’m definitely just looking for good enough - not perfection. Aint nobody got time for that. 
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