Either on the inside or outside rod(s) can be used to hold a cap on the top. Just like the said hinge.
Please understand, I am not challenging his design, just an alternative design for functionality. Food for thought to spark other projects.
Either on the inside or outside rod(s) can be used to hold a cap on the top. Just like the said hinge.
Please understand, I am not challenging his design, just an alternative design for functionality. Food for thought to spark other projects.
Cool, but how does it rotate through the LED lamp?
The overall dimensions are 3"x9" but could easily have been shorter. The height was forced upon me by my choice of salt lamp cords but I liked the thumb-controlled dimmer. The tube-holding base was tall and I’ll likely find shorter ones when these run out. I could probably be built to 7.5" tall using these bulbs and even shorter with shorter tubes.
The bulb is LED, dimmable and are a warm 2700K. I’ve honestly not even detected heat emanating from the enclosure even after hours of use. Important topic but I don’t think heat is a concern in this design.
I’m confused with this question… The top of the ring is a track, the bottom is a rail. There is no going through the lamp, they move around the lamp. Each ring rotates on the one underneath individually.
I have no real dimensions. I drew up a quick representation of my thought of how it could be done.
Someone had posted a link to an application called Linkage. I have not had a chance to check it out but you might take a look at it if you continue to do projects that require linkage/pivots.
Here is a link to David Rector’s youtube channel. David makes the Linkage application.
Got it.
That wasn’t apparent to me from the drawing.
Cool idea!
Sorry, I thought the sliced view illustrated that.
Incredible progress you’ve made in such a time. Seeing what you’re up to is genuinely inspiring me to keep tinkering as well, so thanks for that
I’m about to start on my first serious wood project which will feature some brass sheet inlay. (Though I’ll probably just buy any hardware I need )
That’s what I’m shooting for when I post in this thread. If I can do it, anybody can. Thank you.
Just a regular guy learning on a day to day basis. Confession, I’ve owned a Shapeoko for 6 or 7 years, I’m still pleasantly surprised when a project comes off without a glitch!
I’ll be curious to see your inlay results, please share! Hint, clear lacquer the piece prior to the inlay. Will avoid the mottled look mine has. Also, I did not finish the hinges at all. They will age naturally. Curious to see what they look like down the road.
Finished box.
isn’t it funny that 1/2" HDPE is $34 a square foot. But HDPE cutting boards can be had for $10 a square foot.
Here is a 4th axis adapter plate for my Avid machine at work. Has a couple locating features to center a cheap self centering vise and a pocket on the back to attach to the 4th axis. Tried to get everything within -0.0" to +0.003" and it worked out.
I have a brass back scratcher on my night stand. I noticed every night I was scratching my back. So I went to the mirror and saw a dark spot. I went to the dermatologist and I had a keratitis which is an over growth of skin cells. They burned it off and so now I occasionally use my back scratcher.
You back scratcher looks good. Did you put some magnets in to keep it open?
Not obvious to me, have to ask, what are bracketing? Looks good!
No, it freely moves, there is a slight bend when screwed in so it has a little resistance. It does open when in use the pressure scratching holds it open as well.
Pretty much anything that something else attaches to. I think usually with the express purpose of attaching or supporting another part.
The large bracket in the photo will hold a motor, a blower head, and the pulleys & belt that drive it.
The smaller bracket attaches to the larger bracket.
Todd nice brown toolbox I got one just like it way back in the fifth grade. Honey I think I have the same tablesaw and freezer as well