This is AMAZING fixturing. You jigs are EXCELLENT!
So you’re saying I would clamp from above and have the fixturing jig arm come from, say, +Y, and then I’d cut the +/-X walls and the -Y wall, and then move the fixturing jig arm so that it comes from -Y, and then cut the +Y wall?
Yes, that’s the essence of what I was relating. Something like the star can be challenging.
The prisms, on the other hand, can be done via clamping.
Anytime one has to deal with moving a part or a jig, one should be concerned about preserving their X0Y0. Maintaining their Z0 is also a good thing but sometimes one has to zero again.
What comes to mind is a simple clamp. One mounted and X0Y0 is found you could crank out pieces one after the other. I’m making this up as I go so please bear with me… the idea will some iteration before it’s ready for prime time.
Machine a right angle out of Al (so it lasts). For a prototype, use wood. The corner will need a dog biscuit (or relief) so it is precise. That is as accurate and precise as the Nomad can make.
The right angle is made into a plate. The indentation is shallow, less than half of your desired cutting.
Put a piece of stock in the right angle, tap it into place with a mallet (gently) and push against it from the side opposite the right angle along the length of the stock. Do the same from the other direction. The stock is not going anywhere.
Rough and finish the top. Flip, push in place do the other side.
No tape.
This is a common way of dealing with fine finish with no construction tabs. You can get a sense of what I’m talking about since another forum member - @FlatBaller - has just such a jig. Read this:
Then watch it in action here:
and pay attention to the corner, the clamping pieces and how X0Y0 needs to be determined only once.
With some thought, custom pieces can be machined - soft/hard jaws - for each piece. A way to use screws to adjust the hold can reduce the mallet work.
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