I received my xxl proximity switches today. I have inventoried and all parts are here. I have read the insructions and seems straight forward. I have HDZ.
Any words of wisdom. I will install tomorrow.
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Redoing the wiring is the biggest pain of the whole process, imho.
I had to replace the Z switch on the HDZ a few months ago. I took everything apart and cleaned up everything including the new cover for the controller. Now I have to tear all that apart again. Well the price of fun just keeps going up.
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Yeah, when I first got my Shapeoko 1, I lost count of the number of times I disassembled and reassembled it:
- reassemble w/ longer bolts after purchasing an M5 tap since some holes were stripped out
- reassemble w/ Impossible Construct’s lead screw Z-axis upgrade
- reassemble after taking measurements for a Y-axis drive screw upgrade
- reassemble after sourcing parts for and modifying plates for Y-axis drive screw upgrade
- reassemble after upgrading to 1M Y-axis extrusions
- reassemble after sourcing parts for and modifying plates for double X-axis MakerSlide
There were some electronics enclosure redesigns there as well and a few modifications/disassembly/reassembly iterations I’m probably forgetting — never was really satisfied with that — still regret giving it away and wish I’d reworked it to be a maximally upgraded version of the original size.
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Well things were going well but!
I am missing 4mm x 6mm screw to hold the z switch on the hdz.
I inventoried every thing last night. I will give Carbide3d the benefit of doubt and I must have lost the screw. I searched the floor but did not find it. Ace hw has metric screws.
I scoured the shop for a screw and could not find a temporary one. I will pause for tonight. I could move on but I am tired and have learned from experience to quit when tired.
I took the time to clean things that are usually inaccessible.
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I was missing the same screw.
I stupidly ordered the wrong set but C3D is swapping the sensors out for me.
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how was your experience? the instructions are a bit… daunting, it reads like I’ll be pretty much disassembling and then reassembling my machine (which I have just finally well tuned after moving house)
Mine didn’t ship with the mounting screws, but I have a bunch lying around. The only problem I had was adjusting the sensors to be close enough to detect the metal frame when it reached the limit so it would slam into the side. I thought the switch was bad. Then I realized it was too high. If you think it isn’t working, put something metal close to the sensor and see if the led on it lights. If it does, it’s probably just an adjusment.
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Ok my upgrade to proximity switches is done. I had a 4mmx6mm screw which secures the hdz Z sensor bracket missing. As I said in a previous post I may have lost the screw so I will give the benefit of doubt to Carbide3d. I went to Ace Hardware and got two 4mm x 8mm screws. The reason for two is I did not know the pitch so I got one of each 4mm at $0.23 and $0.30 cents each and cut the screw off because there is a screw/bolt on the front side of the hdz in the same hole.
Other than the screw missing everything went well with one minor exception. The instructions tell you to install the X switch up as high as it will go. When I initialized the switch was not being triggered by the frame because it was just a little high. This was minor and I had my hand on the off button during initialization. The switches all checked out ok by lighting up during the test with a metal wrench. So a minor adjustment of the X switch and everything went well.
One more minor annoyance had nothing to do with the proximity switch but disassembly. I have a BitRunner and every time I disconnect the controller side of the cable I have to remove and reseat the connection multiple times. The MIDI interface will tell you if it is connected properly by sending " /m03" to turn on the router/spindle and " /m05 " to turn the router/spindle off.
Final analysis: When you upgrade your Shapeoko always, always, always inventory your upgrade contents thoroughly and do not start any upgrade without all parts present. I have experienced missing parts on several upgrades and you get your machine all apart and you come to a screeching halt. I have received some of the missing parts a few days later but the package does not indicate that missing parts are not contained. So I repeat any upgrade always, always, always inventory your upgrade thoroughly before start and wait until you have all parts whether you buy them or get them from Carbide3d.
Ohhh time to light up my Kuba Kuba and admire my handy work.
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After being scared of it for a few weeks, I bit the bullet this morning and installed mine.
My kit was also missing a M4/6 but luckily I have an assortment box of M3/M4 stuff that just made that work…
All in all it took less than two hours, and would have been faster if I hadn’t put the Y cable into the drag chain even though it said not to (and I kept it apart I swear)… also used the opportunity to clean/tidy/do maintenance as part of this time.
It now all works great after some very minor tuning/adjustments.
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