Anyone have experience doing this? I assume it’s the same deal as wood into wood, just slightly different cutting parameters.
V-bits should be ok to use on aluminum with very conservative DOC after making an initial cut with a regular 0 flute end mill?
What you guys think?
Seems pretty sound to me.
The only thing I worry about is the different rates of thermal expansion and effect of moisture.
I could imagine a larger metal inlay is more likely to cause problems 
The sharp point of V bits is vulnerable to breaking in tougher materials such as aluminum.
This is a traditional thing to do (my parents had a box decorated thus), but usually the inlays are straight-sided.
I agree with Will- I’d do a straight inlay rather than using a V bit.
The straight cut is the way to go with aluminum inlays. Also, the thin anodized aluminum blanks work well in wood. CA glue works good to hold them in place.
I’ve had some great results with different metal powders and inlaying them with a shallow depth pocket design.
They sell different kinds of fine powder, like copper, stainless steal, aluminum, and bronze. Each have a distinct color and when you use a thin CA glue and sanded flat, it turns out to be a very durable and clean inlay in whatever design you choose.
There are a ton of company’s that make them for pen makers. I’m cheap so I get bags off off amazon from here:
Very cool, that’s similar to what I want to make, except it will be a small box for specific fishing lures.
I’m curious, why is the v-bit used for wood into wood inlays? what’s the benefit? because it creates additional steps to trim off excess material. why not just do the flat inlay like is done with aluminum?
also do you guys know of any materials that mix nicely with aluminum for inlays (besides wood and plastic)? aluminum seems to have corrosion issues when in contact with most other metals and even carbon fiber, which is killing quite a few of my ideas for other projects.
A v carve inlay:
makes a perfect fit easier by allowing the inlay to shift up/down to take up any irregularities yielding an essentially perfect outcome, even if there is a less-than perfect cutting of the inlay or pocket — by way of contrast, any defect in cutting the inly or pocket will show with a straight-sided approach.
Using a V-bit for wood inlays will allow you to get a tight, near seamless look, where the two woods meet. The plug is left a little proud and sanded down to the surface of the stock for a very flat and level look. You really can’t do that with anodized aluminum. It needs to be protected from sanding the stock by being recessed slight below in a shallow pocket.
I’m super curious as to what you come up with. I’ve stumbled onto a few good producers this year and would really like to share a few in a nice box.
