Bitrunner....gone forever?

Is it just the connectors on the motors? I can splice in new connectors to the motors if that is all? All motors have been replaced over the years I now have 4 wire NEMA 23’s all the way around.

Thanks
Doug

If you can make up the Molex KK connections it should work, but it’s not supported.

Thanks that sound good, guess the only other item is the power cord any idea if it is proprietary or just an off the shelf one?

The community has some notes and links on that at:

https://wiki.shapeoko.com/index.php/Parts#Power

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Just read the manual, are people turning the bitrunner to OFF when doing tool changes.

Also, I’m assuming now that when I power down the Shapeoko via the external switch it is going to turn off the router too.

Has anyone wired an additional external power switch in between the bitrunner and the router?

I’ve used the switch a few times, mostly when I wanted to manually kick it on (though you can also do this in CM manually). In normal operation, I trust the board and relay logic to stay off. I have a hard switch before the CM Board and BitRunner - killing either of those kills the router.

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I’m lucky enough to have got a v1 BitRunner, but what would make the v2 much better is if it could be more ‘universal’, i.e. compatible with the EU and UK markets.

Also, don’t forget for UK (and therefore, probably the EU) Amazon does have a suitable alternative here - and it’s made in the UK, which is generally thought to be a good thing, alongside US and EU manufactured ‘stuff’.

All you need to know is the pinouts from the Shapeoko control panel.

The current v1 BitRunner supports 220V locales.

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It does, Will, but that’s not really the issue for me.

I find the output lead, fitted with the US pattern outlet, is too short to ‘butcher’ by replacing it with a UK or EU outlet, requiring the soldering of a new cable inside the box (warranty problem) if you want to do it properly. I really don’t like using adapters/converters as these increase increase resistance and, therefore, current draw.

Also, and this is probably irrelevant as the main market is probably the US, the cables used are for a higher current than in the UK, so are quite thick!

It would be much better to use connectors like these, to be honest :thinking:

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OIC.

That’s a good point, and would be a nice upgrade for v2 — @Jorge ?

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Dummy question: If you’re using the BitRunner and BitSetter, does CM still stop and tell you to turn off the spindle, or does it bypass that dialog entirely? If so, does it also approach front center as the spindle is winding down, or does it wait a bit before coming forward?

The reason I ask is that I don’t really feel comfortable with a spinning bit moving off of the platform of the Shapeoko unless I move it there. I get the same tingle I get when my hands get too close to the red plate on my tablesaw.

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It turns off automatically at all phases of workflow, with or without the BitSetter. Generally it goes to central front position, pauses, then spools up the router. On job completion or before tool change it stops the router while hovering over the spoilboard. It doesn’t move with the router on unless it is mid-program.

For pause and feedhold it also turns off automtically while retracting upward.

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Thanks Dan…so if the spindle is on and close to the front of the workpiece and there’s a tool change, does the spindle move off the front (for the bit change) with the spindle still winding down?

It should not. It should retract/wind down, pause briefly, and then move to the front. There’s enough time that I can hear it slowing down and stopping and get across my shop to pop the door open. Otherwise vacuum hose hits my enclosure door (oops).

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AH…that’s another question! OK. Thanks for that explanation.

I have my router hooked to a Kreg paddle switch…it’s really no hassle to turn it on or off. Speed changes and bit swaps still require me touching the router. Aside from having to clear the dialog and toggle the paddle, I’m not seeing the benefit for the bitrunner…at least not $80 worth of benefit. Am I missing something else?

If you want to make the unit truly international, that is, supporting the various mains voltages around the world (100VAC to 240VAC), then the IEC connector that @NewToThis linked to is what you would want to use. The user could then plug in whatever cord that has the appropriate wall plug for their locale, without any modifications needed. That is what is done for most electronic appliances that support worldwide voltages.

There are so many different plugs in use around the world, it is difficult to keep track of them. See this list for example: [Interpower Guide To Worldwide Plugs and Sockets] The IEC 60320 is standardized internationally for use on products.

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Has anyone with the Shapeoko Pro installed the new Bit Runner with the new Shapeoko Pro mounting hardware provided - hoping you could take a quick photo as I am trying to understand which rail it is meant to go on and exactly where I’m meant to locate it.

@Jorge would be a great addition to the manual

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I have one in the way for my Pro… but it hasn’t arrived yet.

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Mine arrived - but the instructions are a bit confusing for the mounting - if no one sends a pic, I’ll ping support, ask them my dumb questions and then post a picture of it

You must live in California. Im not expecting mine for 2 weeks likely. Ordered a bitsetter in February and took about 2 weeks to make it to Wisconsin