Community challenge #28: Return of challenges

Here is a slightly simpler topo map, this time of North Carolina. For this project, by far the most time consuming portion was finding / creating a good definition file for the outline of the state!

I started with an outline that was perhaps too detailed (particularly along the coast), then pulled it into Google Earth to simplify and export as a KML file.

Once I had that, I again used Touch Terrain to generate an STL, and STL2NC to generate the GCode. A simple CC design for the lettering finished it off.

6 Likes

Looking forward to this, now I have something to do on my shapeoko.

4 Likes

Just a couple weeks ago my wife was asking when these contests were coming back. She loves seeing what everyone else makes as well. This category is the perfect excuse to finally get around to milling some topographic ideas I have had on the back burner for a while now.

Looking forward to seeing some great projects!

2 Likes

Awesome! I happen to be in the middle of this exact type of project! Exciting stuff, glad to see challenges back! I am in!

Here is the link to my ongoing entry.

Community Challenge 28 Entry- Matching Topo Table Tops - Gallery - Carbide 3D Community Site

Hopefully something contained in there will help someone else entering this challenge. The topos are some of my favorite things to do. This one, clearly shows I am no woodworker. Hopefully time allows me to complete these before the end of the challenge.

3 Likes

Dumb question: tiling is gluing a ton of plates to create topography?

Toolpath tiling is a new(ish) feature in Carbide Create. It is generally used when machining a project that exceeds the available workspace on the machine by using fixed reference points to allow you to move the workpiece. I am new to it… still haven’t wrapped my head around it. Most people here could give a better description than that.

Screenshot 2023-04-22 180257

1 Like

Awesome. I’ve done that manually before. Is that in free CC or only pro?

Pro only. Haven’t used it yet but think ill test it tomorrow just to see how it does.

I hope to be able to participate in the contest, but I understand if I do not complete the project in time. I had surgery 2 weeks ago and am in the process of the 6+ week healing for a broken ankle. It has been rather difficult to get around the shop easily to build any projects with only walking on one leg. :frowning: This is all I have on it at the time and not sure when I will actually get it done under the current circumstance.

  • Tucson, AZ

I am working on a project for a customer that lives on Lake Texoma. The plan is to take a 18"x24"x1/2" sheet of plywood, engrave it at 0.1, paint the lake blue and paint everything else white or black, then frame it out with some hardwood trim (dark walnut something with some dark accents). I am thinking of adding some extra depth to the center of the lake with another pocket at 0.2" then painted with a darker blue.

I accept constitutive criticism well and treat it as a learning opportunity. I welcome the advice as I am still learning this trade.



Lake Texoma picture.c2d (743.2 KB)

8 Likes

Love it. Some blue epoxy works great in these as well! Get well… important to keep moving and take rehab serious. Get after it!

1 Like

Oh that’s a great idea! I’ve been wanting to try some colored epoxy.

You may lose the depth variation using epoxy unless you use a semi transparent pour or do multiple pours with the shallow first and the carve and pour the deeper. That may have too much of a defined edge to look natural.

If the color difference isn’t important to you then just cut it all the same depth and save some epoxy.

I have only begun my epoxy adventure so maybe there are other techniques to achieve the desired result.

2 Likes

I appreciate the advice. I was wondering if the epoxy would be like candy paint where it gets darker each layer added.
My first thought was to do the deeper part a darker epoxy and then the shallower part with a lighter blue epoxy. But I wondered if the top layer would cover the lower layer. I’ve been watching reels of guys doing epoxy tables and from what I saw it always looks like they do clear above the objects they place in there so maybe would be more like a base paint and just cover.

I guess if I do epoxy I loose the depth to the lake. But I think the epoxy would look cooler.

It would definitely be good to get the perspective of folks more experienced in the epoxy world to chime in. I have done some rudimentary multi color stuff but have gone for opaque results in those cases. I have seen some really fancy stuff out there though.

Im relatively new to epoxy, and certainly for this type of work. But, what you said is pretty much my experience. If you practice with your mix, and use powder colors in your epoxy, what you will find is the powder coloring will settle to the lower levels and give it a darker appearance. Its good to test different depths in your stepdowns, and different mixes in your epoxy before doing it for a customer or final product. Pouring multiplelayers always works too. Pour a darker layer in your lower levels, and a lighter, semi transparent layer for the shallow depths.

1 Like

Here’s the TLDR (Too Long Didn’t Read): 12” by 12”, 3.5” thick topographic map of a mountain.


My father-in-law is meteorologist that worked for the US government for over 50 years. The only person I know that moved to Oklahoma because of the tornados. He also lived in Antarctica for over a year, and has a mountain in Antarctica named after him. However he has never seen the mountain in person.

I found this Wikipedia page Mount Rodger - Wikipedia , and many years ago he was emailed a photo from a mountain climber…
5MtClimber

Turning to the internet I found the US Geological Survey created from air photos taken by the US Navy…

And then started looking at maps using the GPS coordinates on the Wikipedia page…

The GPS coordinates put an “X” on map, but after looking at the topographic data and comparing it too all the other information we determined the “X” was in the wrong spot, after all not everything on the internet is correct.

Comparing several photos we determined Mount Rodger was actually the peak North-East of the “X”, and the orientation lined up with the mountain climbers photo, which we also determined was taken while standing near “Union Glacier Station” which is the name for the spot where people could camp during the summer…


With that knowledge I could finally start the CNC design process. With the documented height of the mountain at 1410m, I calculated the correct height-width ratio, and came the conclusion that 3 ½ inches tall by 12 inches wide would be my stock size.

Using Carbide Create Pro I imported the topographic data from Tangram Heightmapper as a Carbide Create Component, then created another component using the “Merge Type Equal” option to artificially create a flat surface 2 inches up from the bottom. I would use this surface to add the text you see in the photos.

I stacked five 12x12x0.7” pieces of Baltic-birch plywood. I really like using Baltic-birch because the layers in the plywood result in a “topographic line” like manner in the final product…

Which just fit under the Shapeoko gantry without having to remove my wasteboard…

I started by adding a (secret) message to the underside…

Then flipped it over and started the long process of 3D roughing with a 1/4 down cut bit…

Followed by a 3D finishing with an 1/8 round bit…

I wish I would have weighed the starting stock and compared it to the weight of the result. I suspect 30 to 40 percent of the original wood was removed.

After sanding, and sealing, and some epoxy I added a frame…

I like that the mountain is taller than the frame…

And it can be either hung on the wall, or sit on a desk…

I’ve created a lot of interesting things with my CNC, but this has been the most enjoyable to make. My wife has requested that I make smaller versions for her, her sister and brother. So I’m currently in the process of making three 60% size versions with plans to try the new inlay feature instead of using epoxy for the name.

Due to the single attachment filesize limit the following attachments are multipart zip files.
MtRodger.zip (14.1 KB)
MtRodger.z01.zip (1 MB)
MtRodger.z02.zip (1 MB)
MtRodger.z03.zip (1 MB)
MtRodger.z04.zip (1 MB)

– Update –
For the 60% size versions I’m using the Carbide Create inlay mode (thank you @fenrus for your tutorial). I’m pushing the Baltic-birth beyond it’s ability to hold small details, but I’m really impressed with Carbide Create.

28 Likes

I love the layered look of the stacked ply. Great idea!

1 Like

Less than a week left!

1 Like