Very nice. Is that a bunch of inlays?
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Thanks!
Yeah, the venner and epoxy is inlayed to the base material. Here is a link the build thread, I busted the 30 days and it was closed.
Cribbage Board Series - Design Work - Gallery - Carbide 3D Community Site
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You should be very proud!!
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You can always ask to have a thread re-opened — I’ve gone ahead and moved the posts here.
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Question of the day:
How much would you charge if you had a higher end marketplace with the right buyers?
Turned out ok…some small errors, but this one is staying with me :). The rest are almost finished.
Here’s the materials:
Cribbage Board
- Ziricote
- Cherry
- Pepperwood Burl
- Karelian Birch Burl
- Laurel Burl
Keepsake Box
- Curly Katalox
- Osage Orange
- Quilted Kosipo
- Pommele Sapele
- Button Flake Sycamore
- Quilted Maple
- Karelian Birch Burl
- Figured Eucalyptus
Cheers!! 
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I wrote a bit on this at:
which may serve as a starting point.
That said, you should easily be able to get hundreds, if not thousands — if your customer base has that kind of money to spare — your work is beautiful, and shows a high level of craftsmanship, and most importantly, good taste and proportion (one thing I’d want to see is a bit more sky in some of them, and I’d suggest using a different typeface, something a bit more timeless, but that’s a matter of personal taste — I’m sure there are folks who prefer the zoomed in look and additional landscape, or who would argue that the Rational/Swiss sans serifs have been around for hundreds of years, and that their being used as default interface fonts on computers doesn’t make them of modern times).
Are there any local shows which CNC projects may be entered in? That might give you an idea of the local market. That said, your work could easily be shown in a gallery in Manhattan or Paris or London and not seem out-of-place — it’s just a matter of getting them there.
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The prices are beautiful and demonstrate a serious time commitment. Just the variety of woods demonstrates that.
Wood Magazine had a brief article about CNC this past month. They have a “Reader’s Gallery” each month that showcases the work of various people. Submit yours to that and if it gets published that could drive up your prices even for similar work. People like bragging rights.
EDIT: I just looked at the magazine again. That section is now called “Your Projects”.
Bigger bragging rights if you can make it into Fine Woodworking 
I am not sure if they have embraced CNC in that one yet.
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I’m thinking that your clients for these items aren’t people that play much Cribbage. 
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First off . . . beautiful work.
Second . . . when I’ve done custom work in the past, I’ve generally (barely) recovered the cost of materials. On those rare occasions where I made a profit, it worked out to about $2.00 per hour.
Just make up a number and submit your bill. You never know.
Good luck.
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@WillAdams spot on with the comments, specifically the text. I spend a lot of time designing, but hyper focused on the feasibility of making the design to reality and repeatability to produce multiples. Easy button is to default to the software defaulted text and moving on to more harder problems. In my mind, I’m building the entire piece going through all the actions with my tools as I’m inserting design features.
Your comment reminded me to slow down and really pay attention to those small details that will take the project to the next level. I’ve been stalking some different venues in my local area, at some point I need to branch out and test the waters.
@CullenS Thats a great idea!!
I decided to remake the Wedding / Anniversary Cribbage board I made last year for a good friend. This time I made some subtle design changes from all the lessons I learned making the first one. Here were the pictures from the last build.
Here is the new design:
I wanted to include the numbering around the player track. I recently started experimenting with powdered metal inlays and figured this would be a perfect application.
I ended up choosing Copper for the numbers around the player track and Stainless Steel for the hourglass lettering. The player track outline and calendar numbers and letters will be black epoxy.
I’ll build this and another cool 3D weaved veneer design I’ve been playing around with the past week or so. I’ll post some completed pics and vids later this week.
Cheers!!
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Almost finished up with round cribbage board. Turned out pretty good. I’ll post some pics once completely finished.
I figured I would post a picture of another board I’ve been designing. Going to try to knock it out this weekend.
Early design work, but essentially this will be a 3D weave pattern, made out of veneer inlays with black epoxy. I’m going to sand shade the veneer so it will blend into the epoxy and give the effect of going under and over the walnut base. For reference, those bigger black lines in the middle are a 1/8th thick.
This one will be super interesting making, as there are plenty potential issues with different applications.
I’ll post progress pictures of this one. Excited to start making this one.
Cheers!
** Edit **
Rethinking the color choices here, I want the sand shading to really pop the 3D effect I’m going for, so a better choice of lighter veneer and changing the base to Cherry should pull out that illusion.
**** Edit******* Edit ******
Points to those that can find the one error in the weave pattern. I just caught it 
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I started the weave patterned cribbage board this weekend. Needless to say, this is definitely a pain in the behind. There’s around 200ish individual pieces that I’m sand shading.
Took a while to get the hang of it, it’s starting to come together.
Next time the black lines are getting epoxied, maybe not.
It looks super dark, a light sanding should ease it out.
Happy Father’s Day!
Cheers!
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Looking forward to seeing your results on this one, WOW!
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@MikeG me too, just painfully slow and super brittle. Glad I kept the veneer cutouts to fix broken peices. Super cool though, I ended up making the walnut veneer from the base material. Each one of the cuts match the grain placement. Excited to see if that effort paid off and is noticeable.
Side note, I was able to get down to .02 thickness on the veneer. It’s paper thin without tearing it out.
Also what I’m finding is that the veneer is shrinking considerably due to the heat. It must be sucking the very little moisture in the veneer. I re-calibrated my laser and the kerf offsets matched perfectly for the marquetry, but the heat caused some serious gaps. I have a plan to address that.
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@Merick01 Would it be appropriate to post how you managed the veneer at 0.02 on this forum, or have you posted that process somewhere else?
Is the thinness of the veneer contributing to that shrinkage, or would that be happening anyway?
Keep up the awesome work, we’re (I’m) learning a lot!
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I made a quick video on my channel.
The shrinkage had a lot to do with moisture content, but the thickness probably is also part of the equation too.
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Hey everyone! I had some life events that took me away from the garage for the entire month July. I had a chance to get back in the garage and start working again.
Hopefully everything calms down now so I can concentrate on the things I enjoy the most. I finished all the sand shading and glued it up! Fingers crossed 
for tomorrow morning!
I ended up tinting my glue black in hopes the small voids will fill black.
Cheers everyone!
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Doesn’t look like much, but this turned out pretty good! I have a ton of careful sanding ahead of me.
Sanding is slow. Some of the darkened pieces lost the shading, but I have a plan for that.
The depth of the veneer is super cool.
A handheld pen torch makes everything fixable.
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