That would be one option, but the point of the adapter is to use an existing mount — if one needs a mount anyway, might as well buy or make one which is the right size.
Lessee, the original was:
100mm - 69mm == 31mm / 2 == 15.5mm wall thickness
89mm + (15.5mm * 2) == 120mm to approach the strength of the (probably over-specced) original
Assuming the tabs are more than the ~6.35mm the end plates project in past the extrusion we should be good w/ the 130mm dimension and we should be similarly over-engineered. The dust collection mounting will need to be one of the front or rear ones though.
Please see that the 130mm dimension in the second posted picture is the width of the plate the mount is bolted to. Picture is in perspective view . The side stop “ears” stick out farther , didn’t dimension them. And I also did not measure where the mount to plate bolts are in the back, wonder if they need to be moved outside the router whole in the mount also. You machinists know this stuff better than me, I’m not trying to design just offering my eyesight which sometimes is better than hind sight.
I would think so… But I’m new to all this and going by my gut so take that as you will. Given that the diameter of the bigger router is 20mm more than the standard, a 20mm increase in mount dimensions seems logical. That being said, the weight is increasing by 1lb or a little under 22%… Would it be beneficial to have the mounting plate a little wider, say 130mm wide for added strength? Or is that just adding unnecessary weight to the whole thing?
I’ve wished many times that I had been a machinist even in a prior life . We have hundreds of years worth of wood crafting traditions but metal in my family usually means a hammer . Even my son builds his furniture without any fasteners. I don;t like glue though I use it now at my age and loss of sensitivity. I ask these questions out of reasonable understanding and thoughout lack of knowledge. Others can answer, but for me , over engineering is better as long as it still fits. Tolerances with wood can mean soak it or dry it and it will fit . Machining and CNC’ing are a brand new world, but I appreciate your thinking I could answer your questions.
MaxamillionX72 another thing to look at on the one you specified is that it looks to come with a thick aluminum back plate that the mount itself is bolted to and the aluminum plate bolts to the Z plate . So you machinists , would that reduce or handle the extra “lever” loads of a slightly heavier router ?
All very true and I’ll attest first hand that is indeed over engineered! With my 10# motor putting ALOT more torque on the gantry due to additional cantilevered weight, it is handling it truly amazingly! Yes only plastic wheels, but maybe a good failsafe and just need some spares now The only issue I’m seeing is that I am at the max of one week’s tightening and still had a little play. Are there such things as buying slightly oversized v wheels? I’m definitely not going to put stainless steel ones on there and just wear the aluminum extrusions down.
Does that mean you are continuously having to retighten the wheels? are wheels deforming a little or is it the bearings or rings that are wearing? Something somewhere has to give, so maintaining the weakest link instead of using metal wheels and wearing out the extrusion is (as you say) better. Just wondering how much extra effort it is to maintain adjustment with your setup. Thanks, Jude
Hi Jude, I don’t run enough to say continuously re-tighten but they do seem to be loose every so often when I check. I am constantly cleaning/blowing off with compressed air, etc. as well. I have only run a few times and stopped with this setup to take time and finish my dust boot for it so I can run w/o excessive dust. Next cuts will be the lexan for that hopefully. Of course he comes another X lbs added to the setup also but 100% required. I would hope that there was an oversized wheel option available or maybe a “more” eccentric shaft if that’s even possible in the same size hole. I did also re-do the z-axis ones with thread-locker but maybe the gantry ones loose on the Y’s were moving / creeping…
With regards to your dust boot, I experimented with mine because of the risk of colliding with the rails and visibilty issues of using a dust boot. I think that using the nozzel alone without the boot is better and obviously lighter. I held the vacuum nozzel at the same height as the collet nut aimed at the bit and it pulled in at least 95% of the debris, so little flew around that I have removed my boot and remaking the shoe so that the vacuum nozzel is at the same height as the collet nut and aimed at the bit. The end of the nozzel is within an inch of so of the collet nut. So I have no brushes around the shoe and no oversized boot below the router, just a shoe (top part of the dust shoe) that extends in front beyond the mount enough to have an angled slot to put the vacuum nozzel into. Maybe if you try this you will not need the extra weight of the dust boot. Experiment and see what you think.
Hi, thanks for the info. That is interesting as I do need to definitely keep the weight down and can’t hurt to try! Do you have your “Shoe” go up and down, attached to the router body itself? Thanks!
yes it’s on the router body, I’m not running at the moment waiting on parts for the vacuum pump and either building a new plenum for the shop dust collection or bagging everything up incase hurricane Irma heads this way, more concerned about that right now. We’ve been hit several times over the last 12 yrs… just trying to get my head around it all.
But when I held the vacuum nozzel next to the collet bit it really did pull more than I thought it would and I am convinced it does not need a boot to collect to debris. Your big router and huge bits will throw tons more debris and YMMV. Before you build your shoe, give it a try and see what you think, a 4 inch hose also may be difficult to sucure my way as I have a small vacuum cleaner hose and nozzle maybe 1 3/4".
It nice to see you gained from my post about my base and how I eliminated the gap below my system. Glad it helped you, makes me feel good about posting stuff.
I’m a retired machinist I had 3 axis cnc mills and ran aluminum and Delran mostly and I never went over 4000 rpm and 25 ipm feed ! I took full cuts at slower speeds VS tiny cuts at insane speeds ! and at faster run time per part
The only issue I’m seeing is that I am at the max of one week’s tightening and still had a little play. Are there such things as buying slightly oversized v wheels? I’m definitely not going to put stainless steel ones on there and just wear the aluminum extrusions down.