First project. Coaster in walnut. Safe to say I'm addicted!

(Braden Campbell) #1

Probably gonna try out filling in the cuts with colored epoxy at some point

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(Julien Heyman) #2

it looks great, welcome to Shapeokoholics Anonymous !
If you’re going to do epoxy, you might be interested in this thread, where people mentioned a number of interesting tips.

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(Braden Campbell) #3

Ah, I remember seeing that thread a while ago when I was just lurking. Thanks!

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(Bob zambron) #4

Very nice what font is that?

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(Braden Campbell) #5

It’s actually the logo of my alma mater. I just discovered this website: https://miamioh.edu/ucm/miami-brand/logos/index.html

not sure if it is a specific font though

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(Jonathan Anderson) #6

Well shoot, I thought that was a University of Michigan logo. Never would have thought of Miami.

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(Neil Ferreri) #7

@The_real_janderson I’m guessing @AGuyFromOhio is from Ohio. No M@*$#gan carvings allowed.

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(Jonathan Anderson) #8

Hahaha! Well, luckily I don’t have any planned anytime soon. I do have a University of Iowa coaster planned right now though. Hopefully there’s no objections to that. :stuck_out_tongue:

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(Guy Donham) #9

You coaster looks good. I have done many epoxy fills in the past. If you want to fill the M then I would suggest that you seal the wood with dewaxed shellac (Zinzer Universal sanding sealer) then a couple of coats of oil based Minwax Wipping Polyurethane. The shellac seals the wood and helps keep the epoxy from seeping into the wood pours. The poly helps with removal of the excess exoxy and also helps keep the epoxy from seeping into the wood. When you dye the epoxy I would recommend TransTint brand dye. It is compatible with water, oil, aclohol and other finishes.

I have been using Acrylic Paint that I bought at Walmart to color in several vcarve projects and it works well and is not as messy as epoxy. I use some natural bristle cheap brushes to paint in the vcarve. The Acrylic paint should be applied over the same dewaxed shellac and wipe on poly as above for the same reasons. If you do not seal the wood you can get a lot of soak in of the paint and you have to sand the carving excessively to remove the remnants.

The epoxy will look flat when you sand the coaster but will come back to life with the application of a finish. Since you are not sanding down into the letter with acrylic paint you do not have to worry about the sheen of the letter when finishing.

Just remember that preparation is 90 percent of finishing. Do not rush through and no matter what finish you use, waterbourne, oil or laquer it takes several weeks for the finish to fully harden and cure. So do not start putting drinks on your coaster the next day or all your hard work can be ruined.

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(Allyn Phillips) #10

I seal my pieces with Minwax Polycrylic before adding art & glow resin. I like Art & Glow because it’s a low Oder 1:1 ratio making it easy to measure. The sealer also prevents the wood from creating bubbles in the resin. I use a kitchen small torch to pop any bubbles from mixing, Generally there are very few.
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(Bob zambron) #11

Would you be willing to share your cc file for the project? Would like to make one for my nephew who is a big Michigan fan.

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(Braden Campbell) #12

As mentioned earlier, It’s not actually a University of Michigan logo, but a Miami University Logo. Regardless, here is my file: miami_coaster.c2d (290.8 KB) and here is a Michigan logo SVG that may be good for your application: Michigan_Wolverines_logo I would recommend doing a VCarve Operation on the outer profile of the logo (The thin navy line). I think that would produce good results.

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(Braden Campbell) #13

I went ahead and made a michigan coaster in CC because I’m bored: Michigan_Coaster.c2d (47.8 KB)

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