Good evening everyone,
Was cutting oak tonight and been getting these fuzzy edges
would any of you cleaver people have any suggestions as to what might be causing this?
Please let me know if you need any other information
Oak is tough stringy stuff with a pronounced grain — leaving a roughing clearance, then taking a finishing pass will help, and you may want to experiment with climb vs. conventional cutting.
Consider using a downcut endmill.
If suited to the design, chamfering the edge can be a nice effect and will help control this sort of thing.
Thanks as always for the quick reply - funny enough i was looking at the climb / conventional already, downcut noted will try that in the morning.
Would you be able to point me in the direction of any info on chamfering and what it looks like how to achive it?
Chamfering would be running a V endmill along the edge — easily done, just inset the path by a bit, and offset to the outside a bit more, then cut those two paths at the end as a V carve.
I have cut much oak. And as will said, it is very stringy with its fibers. You need a super clean and sharp tool to do good finish work. Definitely doing a roughing pass first then a finish pass will help. Also, I almost always go back with a 200 or so grit sandpaper sponge and do a light sanding on the top and those edges clean right up very easily.
Use a vbit and a trace toolpath in Fusion.
just looking at that now thanks
I use these sanding sticks to clean up the edges. I’ll use a 220 or so stick to sand/shave off the “fuzz” then go back lightly over it again with the 400 or 500 grit stick. (I bought both sets of sticks, so I have 80 to 500 grit sticks)
I use this 1" sanding pad on an air die grinder for the flat bottoms of my pockets. The sanding discs are like $0.50/ea, which I thought was ridiculous, so I bought a 1" gasket punch and I can get 13 out of a standard 5" velcro backed sanding pad for my random orbit sander.
I designed and 3D printed a holder for my pegboard to hold everything up off the bench.
@MadHatter - you sir are today’s Scooby snack winner i didn’t even know that a sanding stick even existed!! thank you very much
I just did a chamfer on a piece of plywood by using a V bit and cutting on the outside of the line. In your case it would be on the inside of the line.
Try it on a sample piece of wood and watch your depth of cut.
Also, you can try chamfering with a ball endmill as well to see if you like it before buying a changer endmill. I’ve done it a few times with a 1/8" ball endmill and it turns out nicely.
I switched to a downcut bit and have seen remarkable results. Here is a recent pocket in oak with no sanding.
I just had the exact same issue. Changed to a 3/16” down cut spiral and had a perfectly clean cut. I was also using oak.
thanks for the picture and feedback will try that cutting tonight!
As others have pointed out oak is hard and fiberous. I keep one of those sanding block sponges handy and hit the surface. I also use sanding sticks branded "Sanding Detailer. It comes in little bands that you put on plastic spring loaded sticks. It has a rounded end and a long tapered end. As the sand paper loads you can move the band around on the stick for fresh paper. Even on a regular router you will get fuzzies. The down cut will be better but the fuzz moves to the bottom of the picket. There is no automatic on the cnc router. Wood is a natural product and the nature of the straws that wood fiber is made of makes fuzz. Additionally I have a glass plate made for sharpening plane blades with a piece of 220 sand paper glued to it. I use regular 9x12 paper and use 3M 77 spray adhesive to adhere the paper to the glass. The glass is dead flat and you rub your project over the sandpaper with the grain. You will find that end grain is very porus and what ever paper you finish the face grain with go at least one or two grits higher for the end grain. The finish and/or stain will not soak in as fast with a finer sanding on end grain. Good Luck. You will find that finishing your projects is more tedious than designing and cutting. 90 percent preparation and 10 percent inspiration is what it takes to have good looking project.
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