Good question. I’d suspect shipping would eat up any savings and then some.
Is there no equivalent to McMaster-Carr or MSC Direct?
Good question. I’d suspect shipping would eat up any savings and then some.
Is there no equivalent to McMaster-Carr or MSC Direct?
I don’t want to derail this thread, but here is an auction for a 18" x 24" x 3" surface plate and stand in SoCal. It is at $93.00 for everything right now, but even if it goes up, it will still go for a lot less than new.
Assuming B Grade (tool room grade) It’s Grade A (Inspection) [ based on the data plate accuracy dimensions ] from this company:
$294.00 18 x 24 x 3 surface plate
$433.00 18 x 24 castered stand
And don’t forget shipping.
Will,
I have had the toughest time Tramming my Shapeoko Pro XXl. Leave lines on my project and is specifically noticeable when I do 3d profile and even more noticeable on the finishing toolpath.
I have tried changing the step over from 10,9 8,7, 6 and 5. This starting happening about 1 month ago. This is on the same toolpath that I have used before.
I spoke to several of the Carbide 3d staff. And all have said it is a tramming issue.
My friend has an 18”x12”x3 granite surface plate grade A.
Would my machine be ok to hold that much weight it weights 91lbs?
Yes, I think it would be fine to put that on the machine, but I don’t think it would be necessary.
If the machine was working well, but then problems developed, my inclination would be to check the aspects of the machine which wear:
also check the hardware and make sure everything is secure — once you’re sure everything is mechanically sound you can begin to check the adjustment and alignment of the mechanical elements.
Depending on your tramming gauge you may have to raise the router. I have a similar plate but I think 2” thick. Even that was too much for my gauge and I wasn’t smart enough at the time to raise the router in the mount.
Do people have marble/granite counter tops? I got a couple sink cutouts from double sinks (24" x 31") & gave one to my partner and kept one.
Will
Where can I get these nuts and bolts? Is there a picture you can show me where these spindle bearings and Z Plus lead nut is located on the machine.
For the Shapeoko Pro XXL
Spindle bearings are in the spindle — for the Carbide Compact Router we don’t consider them a user-replaceable part — replace — if under warranty, let us know at support@carbide3d.com.
The Z-Plus lead nut is inside the Z-Plus Z-axis — check in at support@carbide3d.com and we will work out how to handle that.
Wiil,
When you say check the hardware what do you mean by that?
Per the machine operating checklist: Machine operating checklist , the basic points of adjustment for a machine are:
Naturally, this assumes that all the wiring is in good condition and all connectors secure per the Machine Operating Checklist. Verify that all wiring is in good condition and all connectors are secure, and that all wiring leading into connectors are properly in place and are secured so that the wiring leading into and away from connectors will not shift.
A good video overview on setup:
Tramming the Z-Plus: https://youtu.be/rGOGlNurglE
Ensure that all screws are in place and secure, esp. on the linear rails on a Pro.
Will,
How would I know if it’s a spindle bearing problem?
Do the pictures I posted, could they be a possible indication of a spindle bearing problem. Like I said I tried everything with this machine.
Usually spindle problems are easily diagnosed by putting a probing pin into the unit, then powering up (so as to lock things) then grabbing the tip of the pin and trying to move it — if it stays put, then things should be mechanically sound, but even the smallest shift should be investigated and addressed.
To check the spindle bearings, I grab the bit and shake. If I can feel any movement, I have a bad bearing. They wear out. It is replaceable.
Zman
Did your projects have these lines when you finished, due to spindle bearings going bad?
Yes and no. I was getting stepping and uneven edges as the bit shifted to one side from pressure. It is part of my monthly maintenance to check the bearings. If I notice slop, I change them.
Hey Raul, when checking the spindle/router bearings for lateral movement, recommend also checking for vertical movement by pushing the bit up and down. This checks the Z-carriage guides and ball-nut for slop as well as the spindle/router armature. The Dewalt router that came with my Shapeoko 3 had about .5mm play vertically. Turned out that the molded plastic top bearing seat was oversize. This messed with my depth of cut/max depth accuracy until I figured it out.
That being said, I noticed that the deep grooves are somewhat evenly spaced in the Y direction. Looking to the experts to confirm, but wondering if the problem could be flat spot(s)/crack(s) in the Y-axis v-wheels? Maybe one or more eccentric nuts are too tight causing a weak spot in the v-wheel to deform every rotation? I would visually inspect all 4 v-wheels, and rails, on each side. You might even just swap the uppers for the lowers and see if it makes a difference.
Hope that helps.
Brian
This topic was automatically closed after 3 days. New replies are no longer allowed.