I am a bit perplexed as I am trying my first inlay project. I’m making a simple coaster. Part A and part B went just fine the two pieces are glued together and now I need to surface down to the top of the coaster to reveal the inlay. Between the two pieces my combined stock height is .97 my finished height or top of coaster needs to be .407. I need to remove .563 of the material. When I lay out a linear 180° tool path with the Engrave option and use the McFly 1 inch cutter with a step over of .5 and a cut depth of .015 per pass when I enter .563 as my finish height it takes it all at once and it automatically changes the .015 that is set on the McFly tool to .563 so when it runs the simulation it is taking the entire .563 in one bite. So if I change the McFly tool to .015 and then hit OK it then changes the cut depth to .015 on the engraving tool path. I’m not sure why they have to match each other and how do you go deeper but still limit your depth per pass
Don’t use the engrave path.
Create a series of lines and connect the ends at every other side to make a more or less zig zag across your geometry. Then use a contour path using that vector. Contour paths support using open vectors. You can then control the DOC just like any other pocket/contour operation.
I appreciate your info. I must admit I have seen that on the form before but I did not see any reason why I couldn’t use the linear engrave path but obviously the path wants to match up with the settings as far as depth per pass and total depth that you’re removing. I just don’t understand that and I was looking for clarity But yes I am just going to create the contour paths.
I think the engraving path is typically meant for the drag bits on metal or acrylic. Since those bits are spring loaded having multiple passes at different depths doesn’t make sense.
I walk through either using a pocket toolpath or drawing up geometry for this at:
I have given this advise before about machining off the inlay. Do not go all the way down to the surface of the female pocket. Go down and leave an onion skin. The reason is for me that I will say I will give it one more pass and that one more is always too much. By going down and leaving an onion skin you can use a random orbit sand paper at 120 grit to remove the remaining inlay and have better control. Just remember when sanding let the sander do the work. When you start bearing down on side or the other you get an uneven surface. So just let the sander go across the top of the work and remove the inlay and DONT help.
If you go a little too far with the surfacing bit you can loose detail in the inlay and that can ruin your project.
This topic was automatically closed 30 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.