I’m planning on making a Myer’s spoil board for my S3. I’m curious though…how do you fasten it down to the factory board? SWMBO has pointed out to me many times that I over-think things and maybe that’s what I’m doing here but…
I don’t have a brad nailer yet so that’s not an option at this time. And it seems to me that pre-drilling and screwing it down would eventually work loose. Over the course of few spoil boards, removing and re-screwing them down would weaken the material in the factory board to the point where the screw holes tear out.
I don’t want to use glue or permanent double-stick tape since that removes the “replaceable” part of the spoil board. And I’m not sure that removable double-stick tape would work as a long-term solution.
Don’t use tape, you will need to remove your supplementary wasteboard at some point and you don’t want to damage the main wasteboard. Tape and brad nails are not very good to hold properly in place. I have mine screwed on with 9 counterscrews too but I also hold it one the sides and in the middle.
I used T track screwed down to the main waste board, then put strips of 3/4” mdf in between that I fastened with machine screws into inserts that I installed into the main waste board. In theory if I damage one of the single filler strips I could replace just that one by simple remove/replace (I actually cut some extras when I made mine). I’ve yet to actually have to replace one, but I can pretty easily. I did a really long write up a couple years ago (and that write up got derailed several times). You can see it here:
When I made the Myers spoilboard I made 3 of them at the same time. I drilled all the tee nut holes in all three. I then laid all 3 on top of one another and drilled a hole in all 4 corners of all 3 spoilboards at once. Then I laid the first spoilboard with the tee nuts installed on top of the factory mdf and used the same drill bit I used to make the holes in all 3 spoilboards. I removed the spoil board and the 4 marked holes were on the factory mdf. I drilled out for the brass 1/4=20 inserts and installed 4 of the brass inserts. I then countersunk the holes on the spoil boards for a flat head screw. You need to make the counter sink rather deep so you can flatten your spoilboard and not hit the steel screws later on. I have an XXL and the extra weight of the spoilboards made the center of my machine sag. I put a piece of plywood under the center and leveled the machine and the sag was gone.
I just took half the screws out of the stock spoil board, used one of the halves for a template, drilled holes and countersinks on the corners and one or two other places across the field that matched with what is in the original board in 1/2" MDF with my inserts installed . Then I replaced the half I used for a template on the XXL and left screws out in the spots that were where I drilled the new waste board that was fitted with the inserts. I went to HDP or Lowes and got longer metric cap screws that would go through both my new waste board and the original board and screwed it down to the frame.
Four deck screws one in each corner. Ain’t coming loose till I pull them out. But I like using a couple of long bolts through to front and back plates. Don’t overthink