How to 3D profile the sides of a tray or soap dish?

Correct, the depression would be made early in the 3D model.

However, it would then be necessary to model the rounding in the 3D model and cut using 3D toolpaths since it won’t be possible to make the Contour toolpath follow the 3D model — unless one uses a work-around where one puts a very small indentation in the 3D model and then cuts that as a 3D Finishing toolpath using the roundover tool — but that would need to be taken on faith since Carbide Create cannot model such tooling as noted at:

I’ve been working on a programmatic library in an obscure application which may eventually be able to preview such G-code, but it’s early-days yet.