Inkscape and halftone help

If you click on the [Toolpath] tab, you can export G-code.

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Thanks @Murdocjx. I think I tried .tap but I’ll generate new code and try again. I REALLY am looking forward to making this work!

@BoscoBob I did write the Gcode using that button button the only save option is a .txt file. Thanks for your help though.

If I remember right you might have to delete the first line of code in the file after you change it to .tap. It’s been a while since I’ve used it though

I get everything loaded through and converted from .txt to .tap. I then load it in to carbide motion after removing the first line in the text file. It runs but it just sits there and vibrates in a very small area. Any one have these issues? I am assuming it has something to do with the code lines? What have other people done to get this to work?

If you wrote the code in inches try to rewrite in mm.I was having that problem in a diffrent program when running .tap files,worth a shot.

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Very, very, tiny movements are typically caused by a file being generated in Imperial, but the system assuming that it is in metric, so it comes out as 1/25.4th the actual size.

Opening the file in a text editor and adding the appropriate unit indicator (G20?) as the first line usually fixes it.

I would suggest always using a previewer when possible. The community has a list of them at: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Previewing_G-Code

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Yeah what mark said. Yo cut the gcode in inches and CM trades MM. Size everything up in the program the way you want it in inches then before you write the gcode just click mm. It does the conversion for you.

Also what bit are you using. I noticed in your screen shot that you had a 90 degree bit. If that’s true I recommend a 60 degree v bit instead.

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Thanks for the help guys! I will give this a shot when I get home tonight. I am just using a cheap 90° bit from a router bit starter pack. I had a nice 60° whiteside cutter but dropped that on the concrete and broke the tip off :frowning: If this works well I will be ordering some more 60° cutters.

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Thanks everyone for your help!!! It’s going to be warm here this weekend so I plan on playing around in the garage to see if I can get this to work.

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One last tip. Depending on the size of the holes you selected, I think I did .1 in as max, you have to make sure your base is completely level and doesn’t sag. The littlest difference will case the hole sizes to differ and distort the image.

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Did you by any chance increase the feed rates from the default setting of 50ipm? Seems like it could possibly take quite a while to run one of these and I would be looking for the best ways to speed it up.

On a side note, does anyone know how fast the maximum travel is on the shapeoko 3?

Oh yeah I think I doubled it.

Also what I did was in the tap file so “find and replace” under edit in windows notebook and for the find out z0 and leave the replace empty.

The program drops the bit in z axis every step even if there is no hole to be made. This will remove the needless z movement and only drop the z axis where a hole needs to be.

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I had mild success with this this weekend. Nothing worthy enough to share, but I am getting closer to where I want it to be. Having a very level surface seems to be extremely critical. As stated above, slight variations in the stock can cause a lot of distortion in the final image.

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You might want to consider using a touch probe — Carbide 3D has one in development, and there’s support for one on bCNC (as well as other apps).

I tested it on the weekend and I GOT IT TO WORK!!! Erasing the first line of code and saving it as a .tap file did it.The test I did was small (6"x6") and you have to stand pretty far back to make out the image. I plan on doing some bigger images over the next couple of weeks. Thanks to everyone for your help!

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I ran a feed of 133 IPM. It took 4 hrs.!
It never gets to go that fast cause there’s so many plunges.
Do like Jason says and start with a small photo with lots of color, and use a 90Deg. bit.
I used a 60. Bad move.
The file, yeah youll have to add the G20 at the beginning. As Will said inches to mm makes it tiny.
If it was the other way around, well it wouldnt fit :slight_smile:
I found reactor much easier to use.

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about 200 IPM…
I think you can see it during rapid positioning.
I think I hit rapid pos., then changed screens while it was moving.
Also A G0 command in the MDI, or check your settings.

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Do you just write the g code and open that file in carbide motion? Or is there more you need to do?

Hey Steve, since this is a very old thread, just in case you don’t get an answer here check out this other thread where I used Jason Dorie’s excellent Halftoner software and explained the steps:

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