No idea what im doing wrong, but whatever i do the male plug is always to loose. Ive followed the tutorials on here to the T, along with other software tutorials hoping I could find an answer. Ive dove deep into the bowels of the forum and read the other inlay issues, but come up with nothing helpful
I cut both male and female with the same bits. Ive tried different start heights, and glue gaps. Each time i get the same loose male plug.
What V tool are you using?
What gap setting?
How are you setting Z-axis zero?
Have you tried one of the example files from the thread:
Post your .c2d file, step-by-step notes on how you are securing your stock and setting zero relative to it and managing all tool changes and a photo showing an attempt at cutting still in place on the machine with the machine at the origin or a specified offset from there?
Can you post the files?
Im using a IDC woodcraft 30 v bit and 1/8 downcut also from IDC.
I set my zeros with the new bitzero and I also have the bitsetter i use when changing bits.
I use blue tap on my project and waste board and secure both with a generous amount of super glue.
As far as glue gap goes, ive tried 0, .01, .02, .04, .06
I can get and share the file tomorrow
Try w/a Carbide 3D #301 or equivalent 60 degree tool which doesn’t have a rounded tip?
Is that tool actually 30 degrees?
A 1/8" diameter 30 degree tool should have a flute length of 0.2416", not the 0.252" which they specify:
I cant use a 60 because there is fine detail that would be blown out.
But for the 30 v bit I use the 1/4 version, would that make a difference? In my tool library its labeled as such. As for the flute length, is it pretty universal among manufacturers?
I will say that I have not tested the bits angle, but I have tried two separate bits from IDC, both were 30s, both gave same results.
Wouldn’t a V tool in a V carving or Advanced V carving lift up and preserve that detail?
Alternately try the #45771-K 30 degree engraver in
It’s defined as an engraver in Carbide Create, but works well as a V endmill in my experience:
I have that Amana bit and fee like the tip got blunted.
I recently bought the one from IDC
And have used it a bit and also feel like the tip blunted to some degree from the bitsetter.
I have not tried either for inlay. The IDC bit is very nice. I can’t speak to the official angle though.
The calculations/cutting for a V tool require that the tool geometry in the software match the physical tool.
One possibility would be to adjust the angle slightly to make up for this rounding — might be worth a test cut — it would slightly increase the material removed, esp. at the bottom, but that might make driving things into position easier.
Im not sure if it does, ive always gone by what the simulation is showing. And when I switch to a 60 v bit, some of the detail gets removed.
The rounding over from the bitsetter seems logical. Would it be possible to recut my female pocket with the 60 V, since i have not removed the project from the spoil board. I could just adjust the project to work with a 60 V
Trying again with a 60 sounds like a plan.
Actually, on second though, the 30 degree, being more acute would have removed more material than the 60 would — it would work to go the other way though, which I guess is what I was thinking.
Good luck!
I should just be able to rerun my adv v cut just swapping out the 30 for the 60 right? I haven’t removed the piece from the spoil board yet, or do I have to plane the project down and start over?
I don’t think changing tools will work — better to surface down and try again.
new.c2d (688 KB)
Ship male inlay.c2d (184 KB)
I resurfaced and switched to a 60v, I got the exact same results, the male inlay is way to loose.
I added the files.
Photos showing the results?
Files seemed okay — post a screen grab of your custom tool definition?
Did you find a solution to this? I seem to be having a similar problem after multiple tries following the tutorial as well.
Nope, I never got it to work, I gave up trying
Your setup in CC looks right. The 0.010 gap may be a little small, but you said you tried with larger values.
Do a test like this, where the pocket & inlay overlap the edge of your test piece. You can put them together & see the fit. The features are even sizes, so you can also measure them to see if they are cutting to the right size.
Inlay_Test.c2d (52 KB)
If you end up with small/shorter features because of fine detail, you should sand down the sharp points to add a little glue gap in those areas.
