Looking for Ideas On Cribbage Board Peg Storage

I built a cribbage board out of 1/2" board.

I am looking for ideas to store the pegs (On the underneath side since to top has no real estate left).

I am thinking of some kind of pocket with small neodymium magnets holding a lid in place possibly but open for any kind of ideas. Keep in mind the thickness of the board.

The pegging holes are around the outside of the 1/2" board so I have the entire middle of the board bottom to use.

I do have some square rubber feet that I COULD place on the 4 corners of the bottom of the board if a latch of some kind is needed that would extend past the bottom of the board.

I would kind of like to use a magnet system if possible but not necessary. I have round and rectangular magnets.

Another thought would be an addition that would hold a deck of cards as well as the peg storage. But the board is not thick enough to house a 3/4" deck of cards so it would have to be added to the bottom of the board.

Why not a circle, with a rectangular pocket at the bottom, and some magnets which hold a rectangular cover in place — then just rotate the rectangle to get access, something like:

then you’d just need a rectangle with rounded ends made of steel as a cover — just rotate it and then pull it off.

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Will, that looks like a good way to accomplish this. I found a thin piece of metal that I can use. It is actually a popcorn tin cover. It is about 1mm thick.

I have never carved metal. What endmill feed and speed do you suggest?

Without know which specific alloy it is, one can only guess, but see:

my inclination would be to sandwich the tin in-between two pieces of MDF and then make a pair of cuts:

(make that cut with things clamped from the side)

(make that cut with things clamped at top and bottom)

attached as a v7 file.

cribbage_bottom_plate_v7.c2d (52 KB)

I would not attempt to use the Shapoko to cut out the tin. Use some tin snips to get your shape. Then polish up the ends with a grinder/stoping wheel or something similar. Then cut out the rectangle pocket to the the dimensions of your tin. I would add a side semi-circle big enough to get a finger into so that you can remove the tin from the magnets. Make sure your holes for the magnets are a touch smaller than the magnet themselves or you will be gluing them in.

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Sean, why would you not suggest cutting with the Shapeoko? I would think sandwiching as Will suggested would be safe or am I missing something?

I have started clearing out a rectangular space to store the pegs and then a using a dovetail bit and coming in from the edge to carve a space for the cover to slide into. I then carve covers using the same bit so I get a cover that slides into the slot. Both parts get a small circle to glue a magnet into each part to keep the cover from sliding out. I am replying on my phone so I can’t share files but I can probably try tomorrow. I also like @WillAdams idea of the rectangular hole with a circle inset around the outside.

Here is a link to an example I did with a euchre score board.

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Just my two cents The reason I said that is because the bits and the router are not meant for ferrous metals. Amana makes a bit for non-ferrous metals and I have cut copper and engraved it with those specialty bits. A spindle on a ferrous metal mill or lathe is a high horsepower motor and typically 3 phase to power through a snag, also, speed is too high on a router. Typically you cut ferrous metals very slowly on a standard mill. I also doubt the Nema motors on the Shapoko are meant to hold the router from “digging” in to the material causing the router to seize and potentially damaging it. And as Carbide only speaks to cutting non-ferrous metals, the warranty, if still valid, would be void. But, if others have had success cutting tins of any sort, and warranty is not an issue, then I will go back to observing the conversation. Apologies for the interruption sir.

Here’s what I do with my boards. I have a plexiglas cover over the pins.

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