So I did what one should usually not do: ignore @neilferreri’s advice, and proceed with my initial idea (seriously though, the reason for not going to the Dremel-on-a-custom-jig option is that I want to learn turning small objects anyway, so I invested in something that would be a bit less awkward to use and hopefully more precise)
It’s like this mini-lathe and the SO3 were meant to work together.
I’ll update this thread as I progress towards my custom CNC lathe. And then I can rings to rule them all !
By the way, if anyone has advice on good resources/tutorials on turning, I’m all ears.
Nope, I don’t want to get into the “interesting” world of managing a 4th axis just yet, my intent is only to drive the tools in the X/Y plane, while the lathe is turning at constant RPM.
Nice little lathe, I wonder if the motor will have enough power for anything but the smallest and softest material. At the moment, if I wanted to implement a 4th axis, I would consider the roller Y axis method but I would have to find plans or do my own design with all the pitfalls. I never seriously considered implementing a 4th axis since the stock Z of the Shapeoko does not give much clearance but now with the HDZ, it is something I may try at some point.
Would be interesting to do like I do with my laser, disconnect my Y axis and use it to turn the rotary. You would still have the x and the z. (which is what you normally use with 4th axis.) the Y would be center line of the lathe. The only issue is how to control the Y functioning as the rotary. Software allows you to change the steps and the diameter.
Yes, I have a clearance issue with my 3D-printed frame (usually supports my dust shoe), I’ll have to remove it when turning stuff.
Next on my list: look into attaching the mini-lathe to the aluminium baseboard. And then start looking into generating 2D (XY) toolpath to have the shapeoko move the turning tool. It will either be fun or a total disaster, either way I can’t stop now
I need to survive step1 first
Joking aside, that would be an interesting possiblity, but I would then probably have a significant Z clearance issue to address.
(lousy quality because it was captured from behind my acrylic front window, I’m not taking any chances)
It’s a good thing I reread the thread before launching the job, because I had my tool facing up (oops…it must be flipped since I’m coming from “behind” and the rotation is counterclosewise) so @PaulAlfaro literally saved me from a very silly crash on first try with his comment above.
I have no idea what I’m doing yet, so I semi-randomly chose 2000 RPM, 350mm/min feedrate (13ipm), cutting 0.5mm (0.02")
I feel like a newbie again, I need to go and learn about CNC turning feeds and speeds and the different kinds of cutters and when to use them, etc…does anybody have a recommendation about a specific site or book to learn turning basics ? (but which would be CNC-friendly, I have gone through a few videos already and the “you have to feel it” comments don’t help me much for a CNC lathe…)
I will add a new power switch for the lathe on my control panel outside the enclosure, it feels a lot safer to have the front door closed when I start this thing.
I need to look into what my CAM workflow should be. I can probably use CC and X/Y contour profiles with no Z depth as a hack, I think VCarve supports turning toolpaths to so I’ll check that, and there’s always Fusion360.
I haven’t thought about how you were going to hold that milling cutter. I’m surprised that that is stiff enough without giving you a bunch of chatter. I guess that will show when you “overfeed” the cut.
The lathe isn’t actually an axis being controlled by the machine though. It’s not a CNC router with a rotary axis. He’s got a CNC lathe. Awesome for making precision parts that can be made on a lathe.
(seriously though, the reason for not going to the Dremel-on-a-custom-jig option is that I want to learn turning small objects anyway, so I invested in something that would be a bit less awkward to use and hopefully more precise)
