Nice work! For the carving /pocket integration please see: V carve + inside pocket?
Thank you for the detailed feedback! I’ve mentioned it in our team comms and hopefully someone else will chime in on the things I’m not able to comment on.
Things which I do feel comfortable addressing:
- the VHB adhesive for the wiring harness is simpler, with less chance of user error, and a cost-savings measure — drilling and tapping holes (most folks use M3 or #4-40 machine screws) would add another operation for the rails which would increase cost
- the wiring lengths are a best compromise, and I believe we’re still adjusting based on the new low profile enclosure
- the drag chain bracket and the homing switch have been an on-going thing since summer 2016 — I addressed it on mine with a stack of washers as noted at: https://forum.shapeoko.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=8332#p65048
- metal wheels was considered as far back as the SO1 — it even had holes for mounting them — the problem is they don’t remove much in the way of deflection (it’s amazing that a material whose first industrial usage was for the plectrums in harpsichords, replacing the quill from a bird feather, is so perfectly suited to this usage) and they transfer the wear from the plastic wheels (inexpensive and easily replaced) to the V rail extrusion (expensive and difficult to replace since integrated with the structure of the machine)
- the leveling feet are actually knobs — rather than stainless steel I’d suggest rubber vibration isolating feet such as: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F7EASKQ — or just forego them and put the machine on a sheet of foam and bolt it to a sheet of plywood
Thank you for the very thoughtful post — it really shows how much the project has grown, and also emphasizes the complexity of it now being not just a small opensource project, but a full-fledged commercial product with the complexities of working with outside vendors, minimum order sizes, tolerances and specifications, and the tradeoffs of custom versus off-the-shelf parts.
For endmills, we have a standard set of recommendations at:
https://wiki.shapeoko.com/index.php/Endmills#Suggested_starter_set
- three 2-flute 1/4" straight endmills (such as the #201 endmills from Carbide 3D — one will be included with the machine, a pack of two will fill one out with: 1 for initial experimentation/roughing, 1 for finishing passes, and 1 spare
- two 2-flute 1/4" ball end endmills (such as the #202 endmills from Carbide 3D) — if one wishes to do 3D modeling or cut parts which have rounded profiles along the bottom (often a good idea in woodworking for increased strength)
- two 90 degree V-bits such as the #301 from Carbide 3D — if one wishes to do V-carving or cut joints which use this angle
if getting a 1/8" endmill:
- five 2-flute 1/8" straight endmills (such as the #102 endmills from Carbide 3D [9]
- two 2-flute 1/8" ball end endmills (such as the #101 .125" Ball Cutters from Carbide 3D)
- two smaller straight endmills (say 2 mm or so) (such as the #112 0.0625" endmills from Carbide 3D)
Additions:
- V-carving bits (say 30 and 60 degrees) — these are excellent if doing text
For changing endmills please see: https://docs.carbide3d.com/tutorials/tool-change/ — unfortunately, the Shapeoko lacks the nifty tool length sensor of the Nomad.
I’ve upgraded your trust level, so you should be able to see/do pretty much anything — let us know if there’s anything else which we can do for you!