New guy speed and feed inquiry

Can someone direct me to a good video or a simple explanation on how I can get speeds and feeds calculated for these bits? I was under the impression it was on a data sheet ready for input not that I had to do the M word. Would appreciate some roadsigns and some assistance to help me figure it out from the salty CNC folks out there. Thanks!!!

See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9bceJxpqG0 for concepts on this and see the series #MaterialMonday: #MaterialMonday on YouTube for specifics.

You should test feeds and speeds in a piece of scrap using the technique at: https://precisebits.com/tutorials/calibrating_feeds_n_speeds.htm

Extensive discussion at: Origin/consistency of chipload recommendations and https://shapeokoenthusiasts.gitbook.io/shapeoko-cnc-a-to-z/feeds-and-speeds-basics with a spreadsheet for this at: Speeds, Feeds, Power, and Force (SFPF) Calculator

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If you are just starting, your best bet is to check those MaterialMonday videos that Will linked, as well as use the default feeds and speeds provided in the Carbide Create tool database as a guideline (a few of the Spektra tools are in there already, but mostly you can look up the values for an equivalent cutter type/cutter diameter/material combination, and you will be in the right ballpark)

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Thank you for the information, I have researched and watched some videos but most of these references I haven’t came across. Sifting through all the information that comes up in a search has been daunting and time consuming this really helps narrowing it down. :beers:

As someone who just finished going through the pain of figuring out the same issue, I can say the recommended speeds do work but you quickly start finding the weak points in your setup. There are a few things I have found though that were the biggest help to me. My experience is with wood, but some is general enough to apply to anything.

  1. Clamps - the downward force clamps / T-track clamps just aren’t enough for those feed rates. The gator tooth clamps make a huge difference in how rigid your work holding. With that I made a t-nut based wasteboard (the threaded insert ones tend to strip out the hole too frequently for me).
  2. Z+ or HDZ eliminates a lot of issues with Z plunging. Honestly, the stock z likes to slip if you have to do a plunge.
  3. Suggested feeds work pretty well on adaptive tool paths, you can even go a bit deeper than 1 tool width per pass. For full tool width cutting / pocketing you have to cut down the depth by a lot (I run no more than 1.5mm depth for that). I suspect the compact router just can’t keep up at that point.
  4. As a more general thing, if you need to cut all the way through your material, set your z from the wasteboard not the top of the material. You’ll get really clean, consistent cuts without ruining your wasteboard.
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Using Myers wasteboard and clamps currently but I’m in my infancy. Tracks from what I am hearing are a bit easier. I appreciate the pointers, thanks.

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