PCB milling rectangles with overlapping edges cut twice

I’m interested in this approach to ‘self made’ PCBs. I have used KiCAD (open source, excellent) schematic and PCB layout tool, but always sent out to proto-shops to have the PCBs etched and drilled. I might investigate sending the Gerber output from KiCAD to the CNC for milling/cutting because a) it will be quicker, b) self made is more satisfying, and c) any last minute ‘discoveries’ can be corrected without just having to scrap and re-order.
You used a V-bit, if I’ve read the above correctly. Any experience with very fine (0.8mm) end mills when doing this? I saw a set with 1/8" shanks on Amazon (I think) and wondered what people’s experience was with this fineness of cutter (FR4 material must dull cutters very quickly…)

One reason I’ve been put off doing this myself is all the stuff that comes after etching and drilling like solder mask and silk screens.

This might not be important to you but keep it in mind.

@Gerry -
You are a great observer. I had to think about that…I took the “after” picture first, and then grabbed the before “board” and set it on top of the “after” - no photoshop involved - all “en camera”!

By the way if a $3,000 machine doesn’t do a better job than a $300 machine then someone wasted $2700 :).

I purchased this just to carve traces in PCBs and “better (and more expensive) is the enemy of good-enough”. When it looked like it wouldn’t do that I was getting pretty frustrated. I actually had advice from a good friend who does incredibly detailed precise work that I would only be happy with a Nomad.

Dean

Hi @AndyC -

There are many folks making traditional one or two layer PCBs with their CNCs - and they produce some beautiful looking boards. I have not tried to do that yet partly because of what seems to be a overly complex workflow. The SainSmart forum on Facebook has a number of guys that do traditional PCBS. For my needs drawing some geometry in Carbide Create and exporting G-code is super simple. I just need islands of continuity and a good ground plane to solder to.

@Moded1952 - Thanks for the note Lucas. Since I am cutting continuity islands I don’t need soldermask. With a traditional PCB you would remove copper to make traces and soldermask would be important for traces and pads that are very close together. With Manhattan style building the carved channels provide sufficient isolation to prevent solder bridges. Drilling holes is no problem - just another toolpath. As far a silk-screen - no-one that I know of is using this technique for production quantity PCBs. For less complex homebrew boards you can get by without silkscreen.

Dean

I’ve been looking at CopperCAM as a possible tool here - it takes Gerber output from whatever layout software and produces .gcode files ready for CNC work with a suitable grbl sender (CM, UGS, bCNC etc). Works with 25pins max for free, EUR80 for a lifetime licence removes this limit. Looks neat and has both a simple workflow and the ability to ‘hand create’ PCBs to some extend if a full layout software is overkill.

You may also want to try Carbide Copper?

https://carbide3d.com/copper/

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@Julien Hadn’t spotted that. Will take a look :grinning:

Looks promising… An early Beta, but it is a nice simple workflow

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