I hope you’re doing well, It’s the second time the plastic bracket the handle the X&Y sensor (not the sensor itself) brakes (with the little 2 screws).
The first time Carbide re-sent me the all system (sensor + bracket) but I had to wait 10days.
Recently the bracket broke again, I could contact carbide, But i’m sure I could print a carbon bracket to be sure it’s not braking anymore.
Is there anybody that could have that piece in STL ready to print?
Thanks in advance, and have a lot of fun using CNC
First time it was allready broken when I receied it, no luck>
Second time, the dust collector fall off during a surfacing, and when the CNC finished its job it runs to bottom right, I think this the moment the dust collector runs to the plastic piece of the X&Y sensor.
I re-order, dust collector, the router thas was doing a Noise as hell, and a MCFly 1/4.
Then when I looked to relauch the surfacing I realised the plastic bracket to fix the X&Y sensor at the right was broken>
Contrary to re-order and wait few days, if I’m able to reprint in 3D that part, it could be a real gain of time consedering I receive it in MTL and the sensor it self is not broken, just the bracket.
If you have some calipers, either post a dimensioned sketch or take pics of the bracket with the calipers showing the dimensions and I can whip something up.
Edit: As well as pics of it installed on your machine so I can see where I can add additional support and make it stronger, if you want.
Okay, great pics. I will get something posted this evening.
I’ll make two versions - one for threaded inserts and one for direct threading the plastic. I have found that threads in the plastic are actually pretty strong. Especially for something like holding this limit switch in place threads in the plastic may be enough, but I’ll make two versions so you have the choice.
Molding for that part must have been real interesting
For what it’s worth, I’d agree with you that some of the pieces are just a bit fragile. Doesn’t take anything along the lines of abuse to crack them, just a little oops here and there will do it.
I accidentally ran out of Z travel during a retraction on my nomad 3 once and the limit switch assembly has been cracked ever since. Luckily the part is a lot less “integrated” in my case so there’s no compelling reason to fix it
And the slot dimensions. You can put the very tips of your calipers in the slot of the undamaged slots to get that dimension, and then the width of the slot, then the distance from one edge of the slot to the side of the tab.
I had to guess their locations using the tried and true method of grouping 11 lines together at a set distance, then rotating and stretching them to make a grid to estimate the distance based on the known dimensions of the rectangle.
Also, these dimensions. Inside to inside of the wider chamber, narrower chamber, the thickness of the walls, and the outside to outside height, not including the “fingers” on top.
No worries! What are you going to print it in? You wrote CF, but what combo? PC-CF, PP-CF, PETG-CF, PA-CF? I just got a couple of rolls of Prusa PP-CF and I haven’t tried it yet. It is recommended to put in a .6mm nozzle with the PP-CF, but I’ve just not done it yet.
And these dimensions are probably not needed, but you could also give me the dimensions between the three strips, and the width of them as well (red/white arrows), and it looks like they are slightly angled, so the height of each end (white/green arrows).
Also, a quick lesson regarding measuring screw/bolt grip length - the measurement starts at the surface of the material being fastened. In the case of the button head fasteners, the grip length “screw length” starts under the head.
Also, for measuring the screw thread diameter, you should not use the beveled teeth to measure the thread outer diameter, but the flat part of the jaws. For small screws like these, there is not much difference, but for larger fasteners, the beveled tips of the jaws drop into the threads and do not measure the proper outer diameter of the threads.
Based on the McMaster-Carr solid model, those screws are M3x0.50mm x 5mm long. I was able to kind of wing it with the dimensions, and I think I am close.