Problem with wire harness

grinding noise as it moves, or it hits the side of the machine and keeps trying to move, making a grinding sound?

If the second, check the limit switch

There have recently been a couple people that have reported wires being reversed in the connector. Check the order of wires.

I don’t get a light when checking the limit switch which is 2 weeks old. Tech support replaced it. In fact the only switch that lights in the controller is the Z.

No wires reversed. I have taken them on and off so many times that I have the order memorized.

Are these switches of low quality? I don’t understand why they keep going bad.

I mean the individual wires at the connector.
White and Green are a pair and Black and Red are a pair with the RB pair on the outside.

Is it moving ok until it gets to the switch?

1 Like

The switch didn’t shut on the first try. On the second try it started grinding along the X axis. As for the wires not being in the correct order the harnesses where prewired

They can still be messed up. Take a look at the linked topic and it has pictures of the correct order

So that means they were wired wrong at the factory? I do remember from plugging and unplugging them so many times that the black is on the far left and the green on the far right

They can be, it is rare but it does happen. Nothing is 100% perfect all the time.

2 Likes

Grinding: So it moves fairly quietly, then rams into the end and starts grinding there?

“low quality switches”

They are delicate, not low quality. They’re actually very high quality switches. My experience is that the over-travel is too short for the way they are mounted (ie. they are mounted too close to the things that trip them…so they basically get pushed “too hard” when things ram into them). If you move the carriage around and slam the carriage into them, they can be broken. Try clicking the switch a few times gently with your finger (you don’t need to push it all the way, just until it quietly clicks) - I’ve seen some that have a little grease or something in the contacts, and it takes a couple clicks for the contacts to start working right. If the switch itself is ok, the wiring to the switch might be a problem, again, check for continuity in the wiring to the switch, and see if there is something along the way suspect with the wiring or the connector on the end.

2 Likes

Mike this has been going on for 5 weeks. I have performed all these checks over and over and over again. I know it has to be a wiring problem but where and how to fix it is beyond my capability. After spending $1750 why should I have to go through all this? My feeling is that Shapeoko should replace both wiring harnesses.

Please contact us at support@carbide3d.com and we’ll do our best to sort this out with you.

OK Will I will try again in the morning. I have been working with Nichlaus but it is very difficult to get a hold of anyone there.

Can you get a video of what’s happening? It’s hard to tell from your description if the axes are moving correctly or if it’s (only?) an issue with your switches. Can you get a pic of your connections at the controller too?

Videeo and pic of connections sent.

1 Like

Just trying to help - sounded like this had been going on a while.

Is it possible to home with some of the axis/motors unplugged? Haven’t tried myself, but a thought.

Process of elimination on which wires are at fault… quicken the search.

Good luck with this bobcef

No I tried that. Everything has to be connected.

I received an e-mail from tech support saying that I had the limit switches plugged in backwards. Instead of plugging them in on the right side with 4 pins to the left I had them reversed. I was happy to hear that would finally solve my problems. So I went to the shop and switched all the connections started a new session and started the homing process. Z went smoothly and then the X axis started to move very quiet and smooth and then that dreaded noise started about 2/3d’s of the way down. Right now I’m thing that replacing the harnesses is the only solution.