Question About Using Oramask Film on A Spray Painted Surface

I would like to:

  1. Spray paint the surface of a piece of plywood
  2. Mask it with Oramask 813
  3. V-carve the surface
  4. Spray paint the carved surface for contrast

So, has anyone used the Oramask film on a spray painted plywood surface? The plywood is going to be cabinet grade 11 ply 1/2" birch plywood. I’m interested in seeing if the Oramask film adhesive peels up the spray paint, and how long I should let the paint cry before applying the Oramask film.


I’ve done just that.

  1. Spray the original surface with a color, let it dry completely
  2. Coat that with clear shellac. Let the shellac dry
  3. Apply (in my case) shelf liner.
  4. Carve
  5. Spray shellac to the carved area (to prevent bleed) and let dry
  6. Spray contrasting color
  7. Remove shelf liner

Worked great for me. The first application of shellac may be optional, but I read it somewhere
so that’s what I do, but I think it helps in the removal of the mask


Well, #2 from @ctdodge might be superfluous (because the paint is already there), that is also my standard operation procedure for vcarving text and small images.

PS. I got this educated from friends on this forum, too. :smiley:


Thank you two ( @ctdodge and @CrookedWoodTex ) for the info. I’m going to give it a go this weekend.

It’s raining - again -in the Seattle area, so I will probably spray paint Friday and wait until Sunday to carve. Maybe even help it along with my heat gun at a socially appropriate distance.

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@ctdodge: I just wanted clarify if you are using actual shellac (the natural stuff made from bugs) or varnish, such as polyurethane? I’m just trying to figure out if there is a difference in how shellac releases from the shelf liner / Oramask without peeling up the paint.

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If you happen to run into residue from the mask, look this thread over.

In general, you are going about this correctly. Seal, mask, seal, paint. The sealing keeps the paint from bleeding into the wood.

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This stuff “without wax” is the thing to use:

Rust-Oleum Zinsser 854 1-Quart Bulls Eye Sealcoat Universal Sanding Sealer

I’ve used shelf liner to mask stripes from a flag where I under and over painted several coats. I’m careful about letting the paint cure really well.

As far as the “shelf liner” mask that I’ve used, there hasn’t been any residue on parts that I have left the liner on for months.

(Duck Brand white shelf liner available at WalMart stores.)

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I’ve been using actual shellac, but that’s partly because I’ve been using shellac as my go to finish. I assume poly would work as well.

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I use OraMask a lot. I just make sure to prep the wood really well and lay down a nice smooth layer of paint to get good adhesion of both the paint to the wood and the masking to the paint. I typically wait at least 48 hours before masking, sometimes only 24.

One thing I haven’t seen mentioned is using a downcut bit so the masking doesn’t pull up at the edges during cutting. That always gives me the best results.

Another method can be used, as well. You can use a nice gloss spray paint as your first color and let it cure for 2 or 3 days. Make your cut and then use a WATER BASED paint to color your cut with no masking needed. The color will fill the cut and can easily be wiped back with a wet rag with no I’ll effects to gloss paint. I use a similar method to color my stained/wood grain river signs.


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