Looks really good. Did you add cooling fans to the compressor? I’ve been running mine for hours without cooling and while it gets uncomfortably hot, it still hasn’t given up hehe. One thing I was looking into is adding relay to turn the mister on and off, however I’m using post processor that’s been suggested by mrbeaver long time ago and despite coolant being selected in the F360 I don’t see that command in the code. I’ll have to try to figure it out once I have some extra time on my hands.
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I did not add any cooling fan on the compressor yet, I am using that long job (in progress) to monitor how hot it gets. So far after about an hour on and off it’s hot but I can still put my fingers on it, so I’ll proceed like this and consider adding a fan later.
Fusion360: I only swear by @neilferreri’s post now, it has lots of user-defined parameters, I have not actually tested if coolant option is managed correctly, but I do see coolant-related lines in the file, so you may want to give it a try.
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@BartK I’m using the exact same mist coolant spray system attached to a 2 gallons air pump
which is pretty loud. I think I will be getting the same airbrush kit you are using. I wanted to ask you about your CNC, is it a DIY kit? it looks really nice, and I like the lack of drive belts. How are your X and Y accuracies?
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Anyone using a Sound Level Meter to measure the generated noise of his setup? I’m using this one
which record the data it reads allowing me to generate a comparison chart.
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Thank you. This machine is being constantly upgraded. I’ve probably went through 3 or 4 iterations already. It’s all 3/4 aluminium plate that I cut myself. I’ve reused the shapeoko’s long extrusion but I’m not satisfied with it’s flatness so some time next month will be upgrading gantry to a bigger extrusion with 25mm hiwin rails. Next on the list are closed loop steppers like on my customised so3. Accuracy is always within 0.05 to 0.1mm. Good enough for all the parts that I’m making. Balsscrews have c7 accuracy class but maybe once I’ll start making real money with it, I’ll get a better ones.
I’ve recently picked up, Husky 4gal ‘quiet’ compressor, but it’s twice as loud as the airbrush. Don’t know what it’s duty cycle is but it shuts down occasionally to cool down. I’m still very happy with the airbrush setup. Husky is great for clearing work area and the machine from chips, but not for a constant use.
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Talking about Husky, I have a huskY 30 gallons
air compressor, but I use it for general daily cleaning.
About your CNC, I understand you did it yourself, so:
- Did you use a specific kit design? Or
- Did you design it yourself?
- Which controller boards did you use?
- How did you calibrate it?
Designed it myself from scratch. Once you know what components you want to use it’s very simple. At least in theory lol. All you have to do is make sure that everything is as square and straight as possible. It all looks so simple in the CAD but once you take into consideration the tolerances that the parts are made to, it gets fun because suddenly something is of here and there so you need to shim it or find a way to fix. Lots of fun nevertheless. I’m using xpro v4 controller, but I’d love to upgrade it to Masso controller and add an atc spindle, but that would cost me around $4k so no funds for it atm. The cool part is that once you learn how to build something you want to keep upgrading it and learning more.
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Looking at your controller, it looks like it has a single Y port controller. Looking at your machine, it has two Y motors like the Shapeoko, Y1 and Y2. How do you control your dual Y motors with this controller?
Connect second Y motor to the ‘A’ driver’s socket and select which axis you want to clone. There’s a small toggle switch below the driver that enables you to do that. If you’re using external stepper drivers you just daisy chain two drivers together. It’s all explained well on the spark concepts blog. Or go to the beavercnc.co.uk and it’s all perfectly explained how to build entire setup with this board
If I were building a new machine and wanted to use grbl I wouldn’t buy this board again. I’d get this one https://www.tindie.com/products/PhoenixCNC/phoenix-usb-cnc-controller-with-pwm-output/
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There are several solutions. The first, which you mention, is a quiet compressor. Any compressor must meet its requirements - pressure and volume. The larger the tank, the less it will have to go on and off, increasing its life.
California Air Tools specializes in quiet compressors. They have compressors suitable for MLQ that are 40 dB! Not cheap and not exotically expensive, they do the job. Some other less expensive ones at in the 60-64 dB range.
An alternative approach is an enclosure. Compressor enclosure design is more complex than CNC machine enclosure design Why? Because a compressor has to pull in air (breath) to compress and it also needs air to cool itself. Even hole to let air in, let’s sound out.
The “box” of a compressor enclosure is easy - it’s much like a CNC enclosure: mass, light foam, and heavy foam. How to get the air in, circulate, and get the air out is the challenge… can’t let the noise out! The secret is to design mufflers into the enclosure and a small fan to push air around inside the enclosure. Mufflers are easy to build… provided that they are done properly and an appropriate deadening foam is used within.
A properly designed compressor enclosure (with mufflers) isn’t expensive and 20-30 dB suppression is possible (with care), 10-15 dB is easy.
Another approach is a tiny compressor. These are often found associated with Koi ponds, tattoos, and air brushing. These can work well but due to their small size and storage volume they tend to wear out quickly. They aren’t designed to run for hours at a time.
mark
P.S.
What do I use?
I use a MagLube MLQ system. Probably out of the price range for many, this is a near perfect solution, almost infinitely adjustable. Once adjusted there is virtually no mess as 95% of the lubricant/coolant is consumed in the machining. The lubricant/coolant is safe to pour down the drain; conventional cutting fluids require EPA approved disposal methods.
I have one of the 40 dB California Air Tools compressors. Some refrigerators are louder.
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(don’t mind me, just continuing the airbrush thread)
Slow-mo video to illustrate that the airbrush is quite capable of blowing the chips out of the cut:
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@Julien Please excuse me & accept my apology. I goofed but I didn’t mean or intend to hack your thread.
No problem at all, I have hijacked a fair amount of threads myself, and the discussion is interesting !
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How did you hold down the aluminum block? Double sided tape ???
good old “blue tape & CA glue” method
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You guys think the airbrush setup has enough oomph for a dual nozzle or air ring with multiple nozzles?
I don’t think so. I had to pick the nozzle diameter carefully to get a decent air flow (at 0.5mm instead of 0.3mm I could already feel the difference), so I would be surprised if two or more nozzles would work, but then again I’m clueless when it comes to CFM & pressure things…
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“Sounds” like you are using one of their 1hp compressor’s in a “Sound Proof Cabinet”, right?
Yes, a CAT-8010SPC.
mark
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Guidance from California Air Tools:
“Every air tool has an air consumption requirement.
This is stated for example as 2.20 CFM @ 90 PSI for the air tool to work properly.
A. CFM - (cubic feet per minute) is what air volume runs your tool.
B. PSI - (pounds per square inch) is the pressure of the flow of air.
This will help you determine the air delivery (CFM) you need from your air compressor.
For example the California Air Tools 8010 air compressor will produce 2.20 CFM @ 90 PSI.
If you plan on using an air tool or machine on a continuous basis, it is a good idea to multiply the CFM” x 2 to get a continuous CFM rating for the tool or machine.
Most all air tools and machines are rated for intermediate usage (not continuous).
Always consult the air tool or machine manufacturer for the correct CFM requirement.”
I was unable to find CFM requirements for the “CNC Router MQL System PKG”, but do remember seeing 90 PSI somewhere. Maybe @mbellon will share what the operator’s manual recommends?
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