Hi All,
I have the Shapeoko 5.1 Pro with the 80mm VFD Spindle 220V. Because of outlets, tubing, etc., the unit is in the most out of the way, inconvenient place. I was curious if anyone knew of a remote switch for the 220V VFD? I was thinking something similar to Rockler’s Safety Power Tool Switch but obviously, compatible with a 220V device:
Easy to Find Safety Power Tool Switch | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
Thanks!
Roy
You can use that switch and a 2 pole relay to control power to the vfd. On my old machine I used that switch and a 4 pole relay to control power to my entire cnc setup.
Thanks @quicky06. I’m not familiar with a 2 or 4 pole relay. Is this something I can buy off the shelf and use as-is or does an electrician need to set it up for me? Sorry for the very naive question!
Please check in with the folks at support — for certain VFD/spindle setups, it is a potential concern that a sudden loss of power can damage the unit under certain conditions.
I have a Long Ranger III 220V 20A remote switch. I have an adapter cable to bridge between the L6-20 plug and the 6-20 receptacle of the Long Ranger.
The chiller is easy enough to bring to the front of the machine, so I turn that one on directly
I then have a standard 110V remote switch for the Shapeoko Control Box. I keep both remote triggers mounted near the Power pendant.
This is a new set up for me - so far - it seems to work.
[EDIT] Before you go and try this, see my next post
Will - I had not heard of that as a practical problem. If it is, then I think Carbide really needs to make the VFD unit mountable on the front legs…because forcing it to the back of the machine is super-inconvenient in a lot of setups. I have room behind my unit - but not much on the sides.
I’ve been using the switch I just mentioned - but if it’s going to cause an issue, I’ll stop.
I write out of an abundance of caution. The folks at support will have information which should be heeded. View this as a worrywart opining.
I am not sure if this is the solution you are looking for, but I made a two-pole switch box for my 220V VFD.
That’s a clever idea! Do you mind sharing your 3D file, please?
Sure. Here’s the BOM with McMaster-Carr P/N’s:
| QTY | Part Number | Description | Used for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | 92210A150 | 18-8 SS Hex-Drive Flat Head Screw, 82° CSK, 6-32 THD, 5/8 Long | IEC C20 Receptacle |
| 1 | 1333N63 | IEC Connector, Screw-on Male, Quick-Disconnect Terminal, C20 | |
| 4 | 99050A315 | Steel Slotted Oval Head Screws, 6-32 Thread Size, White-Painted | Switch and Outlet |
| 4 | 92210A194 | 18-8 SS Hex-Drive Flat Head Screw, 82° CSK, 8-32 THD, 1/2" Long | Box Lid |
| 2 | 7087K15 | Panel-Mount Fuse Holder for 1/10-20A Fuse, 0.25" QD Terminal |
I bought the two pole switch at Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-Double-Pole-White-LED-Toggle-Light-Switch/1002944118
As well as the single 220V, 20A receptacle: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-20A-250V-Single-Receptacle-WH/1002793566
4in x 6in x 3in VFD Power Box --A.STL (226.0 KB)
4in x 6in x 3in VFD Power Box Lid.STL (252.7 KB)
I think I got the 220V 20A NEMA 6-20 to IEC C19 power cord from McMaster-Carr as well: McMaster-Carr
Wow, super helpful!!! Thank you!!
My 80mm VFD has an L6-20 Male Connector (the round one). Make sure you get the right receptacle.
Hi All,
At Will’s suggestion, I reached out to Carbide3D’s support. I asked them about using the solution provided by @GJM. They said two things …
1 - They have no experience with this setup but would like to know how it goes. They seemed genuinely interested.
2 - Any physical modifications to the system will void the warranty (e.g. “punch holes into it or rewire it”). Gary’s does neither.
So, kind of good news I guess. They didn’t say “Don’t!”
I’m not sure how that makes me feel, honestly. Kind of like watching a train wreck?
As I said, so far, so good with that set up. But Will’s post has me a bit concerned. There are other folks saying they “pull the extension cord”, which is functionally the same thing. Seems there are a lot of folks who have successfully developed enclosures who are cutting the power to these devices regularly…so I’m hoping there is no concern. I do know that the Long Ranger III is a pretty heavy-duty device, designed to manage the draw of industrial dust collectors (I’ve have one on my Industrial dust collector for 20 years)…so I know it’s rugged and well-built.
I’ll stick with it and report back.
Hi Gary,
I’m going to jump on the train with you (first drink is on me! 
)! More data is always a good thing!
I am intrigued about @quicky06 solution about using the Rockler switch with a 4 pole relay to control everything. That seems incredibly smart and efficient. However, it’s not in my wheelhouse and would need an electrician to set this up for me.
I’ve thought about the “one-switch-for-all” concept…but I want to do things like start the cooler first and let it circulate for a short time before beginning the rest of the work. I mean, technically, that’s not needed…and turning on the VFD doesn’t impact it…but I don’t mind three switches in succession - what I objected to was having to walk around the machine for each switch. That problem is gone now.
I don’t currently use the setup. But. I had a rockler switch that controlled a 4 pile relay with a 110vac control coil. So if the rockler switch supplied power to the relay it was on. I used two polls for my 2 hot legs of the 220v. This is for the spindle and the chiller. I always match chiller voltage and spindle vfd voltage so they can be on the same switch and I don’t have to remember to turn the chiller on.
I used m the other two legs for separate 110v circuits. One was dedicated to the the cnc controller the other had the built in shop vac/ dust collector on it, lighting in my enclosure , and a solenoid valve that turned air on and off to the enclosure.
One switch. Everything activates.
I had a small sub panel I put in the enclosure to power it all that plugged into a 240v 50a outlet I had in the garage shop for a welder. It was all built this way because I knew I was moving. I unplugged it, disconnected air and rolled outt the garage door onto a trailer and set it up at the new house the same way for a while.
It was a nice setup.
Very cool, Ryan! I’d love to get to that point some day!
It was a nice enclosure for the smaller xxl especially in a subdivision having to regulate noise. Now that I’m in the middle of nowhere with. Shop 4x the size I much prefer no enclosure and I can walk around it to get to things.
For lightning storms I cut power at the breaker panel that I installed next to the machine - my understanding is the damage to the spindle is a problem with a loss of power during a cut.
The rest of the time the 220 line is hot to the spindle and it has a small fan internally that does cycle.
Overall the best protection would be a 220v ups that could warn you in time to hit pause and stop the operation.
The ups would also help much more from a lightning strike.
