I am trying to figure out how to round or smooth out my edges after I cut a shape. I am cutting a circle for a doorway. I discard the circle it cuts out. I am wanting the edges of where I cut the circle from to be smooth or rounded. It is a little doorway for a bunny to jump through. Will a Contour Path using a 301 bit create a small beveled edge? I am wanting to just make it smoother.
I’ve had my shapeoko 4 for a few years, but haven’t used it much and I’m not too knowledgeable. This is what I’m referring to, the shapes are just blunt straight thru. Is this possible?
It would be a good thing to figure our how to champher or round over on your CNC but here is some hearacy. Using a trim router to round over the openings would be faster and easier. That is not to say that the expertise to make it on the CNC would not be a good thing but if you just want to be down and dirty just use a router and get it done. All my woodworking is a hybrid approach. I use the CNC where it makes sense but traditional woodworking where that makes sense. I have a shop full of tools and try to use them all. Just dont get stuck on the idea that your CNC can do everything. Yes it can certainly do a lot but somethings are easier and better the more traditional way.
FYI that is a not cat condo. I made this for my daughter for Christmas, or more precisely for her cats.
They have 4 cats, 2 younger ones and 2 older ones. The younger cats like to get up in the top baskets. The older two wont go near the cat condo. Go figure?
That is a good idea and probably faster especially if I’m just doing the circle. I do have a trim router, just not sure how to use it yet. I guess it’s time to learn! I might have to play around some and see what I like best.
I have the roundover bits from IDC Woodcraft and use them when there are a lot of complicated contours like a name sign for a nursery. But if it’s reasonably simple shapes without is lot of interior cuts such as inside letters then the trim router with a bearing roundover bit is way faster. I can do the roundover in less time than it would take to change the bit on the CNC.
What size roundover bit do you use for those nursery signs? How thick do you cut them? I’m looking at using 3/8 or 1/2 wood. My daughter is asking me to make one for her baby girls room.
I used 3/4" poplar for the ones shown below. Both were painted so even MDF would work but I was concerned about fragility in the narrow spots.
I used the IDC 1/8" roundover. I can send you the file for one if you have Vectric or maybe just some screenshots of the toolpaths otherwise. Both of these were over 40" so I had to tile and was nervous about the roundover on that. It wasn’t perfect, but close enough.
Also, before I cut the name, I cut keyhole slots on the back that I plan carefully to work in the name. Then I flip and cut/roundover. I cut a template of the keyhole locations out of 1/8" hardboard to give to the person installing so that it will go up easily. All they have to do is put the template where they want it, level and mark the holes. Then they put in the screws and the name slips right on. Dots over the i’s is more of a problem. On those I put in a small nail and then but the head off so it can just press into the drywall. Tried double stick tape but it eventually would fail.
I do not have vetric, but I’m about to toss this idea anyways. I just was cutting a K out of 30x30 birch and it was going along just fine and then the bit went lower - too low. I am just frustrated because it was doing fine and a normal depth and went lower on it’s own.
What type of bit? Put a sharpie line around the bit where it meets the collet and then you can see if the bit is pulling down or if there is a problem with the Z axis in general. I went through a period of having that happen a lot and decided I had some bad collets.
