For proximity homing switches by any chance?
No, for the PwnCNC HDZ brackets. The originals I 3D printed, but the one proximity switch was attached to it and it had movement when you adjusted the brackets, so you might be off position if you re-home.
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It appears that the router was struggling since it dropped speed to 19,000 RPM at one point and was drawing up to 1200W. It’s probably not a good idea to exceed its “Rated Input” power (120V X 7A = 840W) for extended periods of time.
It also looks like you were probably pushing the 18lbf limit of the X-stepper motor (at normal speeds?) and that I need to fix my “Available Power” calculation.
Note that in my previous post I suggested an approach to separately safely push the machine and router without exceeding their standard operating envelopes. You just need to monitor power while watching and listening to the cut and pause/stop the feed rate increases when things start to deteriorate. Recording videos like you did is really helpful for documentation. I think that you (and others) would be doing a great service if you continue this endeavor.
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In an earlier test when I accidentally forgot to change my spindle from the 17k I had it set to, I got up to 1,400W at one point. 
Kinda shows the need for speed!
Maybe this is worth a shot for the x-axis stepper motor:
Cheap, drop-in stepper motor
Mentioned in this thread: Belt Stretch and Stepper Holding Measured
Dont’ the bigger torquier steppers need more volts from the driver to deliver torque at speed?
Have you tried cutting at 45 degree angles yet?
3 steppers running might change things a bit…
or cutting a large circle
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I’ve run the stock steppers with the stock drive, the stock ones at higher voltage (24V IIRC) with external drives (provides more torque), higher power steppers with standard voltage, standard board (a little more torque), and am now running higher power steppers at 48V with external drivers and getting a lot more torque.
Upgraded steppers (higher current, say 2.1A) will provide more torque, and seem to be handled by the stock power supply ok, are within what the stock drivers can support. To really get everything from them requires external drives and a higher voltage power supply.
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I was waiting on someone much more informed on the subject to chime in. Thanks for the info @mikep!!! I may need to pick your brain if I don’t go down the S3 Pro rabbit hole…
Excellent,
Would you be able to share the specs of the bigger steppers you’ve been able to run on the stock driver board pls?
e.g. current rating, inductance etc.
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Anyone want to bet on how long that Dewalt will last?
Also my vote is for rigidity mods before power. What’s the point of having a race car if it has all season tires on it?
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Or putting a more powerful engine in it? 
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The stepper at a standstill should be it’s highest holding torque. As soon as it starts moving, the holding torque decreases.
I agree, but I can’t bring myself to justify adding linear rails. I also don’t know how I could be 100% sure the x and y axes would be completely square with installing the linear rails myself… Too much cost and work… especially since I could upgrade to the Shapeoke 3 Pro if I really wanted.
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Sort of…but not quite. Delivery of more current can suffice for some gain. It’s not that great, but better than zero. It’s not the full gain you would get if you supplied proper rated voltage at rated current.
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4 DM542S 24-50v, 4A digital stepper drivers ($32 ea),
2 48V PSU’s (7.3 A each) ($23 ea)
1 Keyestudio GRBL board ($20) with GRBL 1.1f loaded.
3 [Nema 23 Bipolar 1.8deg 2.4Nm (340oz.in) 1.8A] (Yx2 and Zx1) ($25 ea)
1 stock stepper (on X - because I was short a pulley)
Total of: ~$255
(Steppers, Drives, Oh My! Adventures with replacement electronics and drives)
The keystudio board is…junk. Don’t use that.
I’ve since changes to a TR https://shop.tomsrobotics.com/product/grbl32-3-axis-cnc-controller-g32f13-150khz/ which is a little off the beaten path, but works great. It’s software port is far better than the supergerbil board and I’ve fed back a few changes to it.
1 48V PSU is sufficient. The current rating you need is (1.8*3 + the stock one) * .666 = about 6A.
The DM542S drivers are very, very quiet.
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Thanks,
That’s a really helpful writeup of the upgrade. The TR controller looks like a tidy option too, a shame that the new Carbide electronics don’t give us step / dir headers, but the extra clock speed on these units seems to be important too.
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The ARM based boards have a lot more clock rate, and much more memory (depending on the part) allowing the queues to be larger.
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Where did you get your upgraded v-wheels?