Just trying to gain some understanding and do some planning for future upgrades.
I watched the 3 videos on rigidity / vibration / deflection which were amazingly helpful but it’s a bit out of my depth.
My machine uses a dewalt router and has the HDZ upgrade, so that’s taken care of.
Next biggest issue seems to be the bed, which is 2 thick sheets of MDF and some t slot aluminum rails for mounting. My idea was to make a proper base out of epoxy granite and 1mm thick steel sheets but I’d reeaaally like to avoid this upgrade for a year or more if possible. I don’t have the knowledge or precision equipment to build this. Don’t have money to put into pre made bed / aluminum extrusion.
I’m unsure the difference in results between current bed and a 200 lbs extremely rigid bed. Should this be a priority for me or can it wait?
I want to spend time learning and running the machine and not time upgrading or maintaining unless it’s necessary.
I’m unclear about the negative effects I’ll experience if I start milling stainless steel on my current setup? Will the machine just vibrate way too much wearing down the machine, breaking endmills and providing a junk finish on parts?
Assuming use of the best single flute end mills is my current setup ok for milling 1/4" aluminum plate for 3-5 hours a day? What is likely to need maintaining or what will break when I’m doing this volume?
Can I mill the occasional 1/4" stainless steel part?
I really want to avoid constant maintenance, every once in a while is ok but I’m just concerned if I’m going to run the machine in a way it’s not meant to I’ll wear it down fast. Tips and advice are appreciated
My SO3 XXL used to sit on a table that was solid. However the center of the bed sagged. I had put a block of plywood under the center and that helped.
I made a torsion box to put on the table top and then removed the leveling feet and put a piece of 3/4" rigid foam between the torsion box and the SO3 frame. The sag was gone and the upgrade was a good one. No CNC can be at its best without a solid foundation. My plan for making a torsion box is on the forum. The torsion box would be a cheap solution and even if you later upgrade to a more solid base plate for the SO3 the torsion box would help support a heavy load.
It’s all about your expectations in terms of how fast you need to be cutting metals. Shapeokos have been cutting metal since a time when the various upgrades did not exist yet, BUT it also required a lot of caution/care in setting up the job.
Here’s me back in the day hogging aluminium on my SO3:
Admittedly at the time my SO3 was modded with a metal bed, HDZ and spindle. You already have the HDZ which is good, the router vs spindle is manageable if you check the runtout on your router, and the XXL vs std size is also manageable if you make sure you bed is properly supported and does not sag, there are lost of posts about adressing that.
At the end of the day, obviously you are never going to but ripping at aluminium the way the HDM owners now do, but if you are ready to take it easy (on the chipload/depth of cut) and don’t expect crazy tolerances, then small batch production of aluminium parts on a SO3 XXL is definitely possible and lots of possible have done it.
Steel, that is another story. Again, doable but you’ll have to be very conservative. You can find examples of SO3 owners cutting steel, but to be honest they tend to be very knowledgeable about their machine and its capabilities, and know how to avoid the pitfalls of trying to do this on a machine that is certainly not designed to deal with that specific material
The short answer is, very likely. When cutting stainless, you want lower RPM and a bit more chip load per tooth. The Dewalt router will not likely have the RPM range you will need for different cutting tool diameters. You almost always want to cut stainless in the climb milling direction. Conventional milling is rubbing and carbide hates rubbing. (rubbing is for racing) Your machine was not built for climb milling nor would I try on any belt driven machine. The SO5 or HDM are ball screw driven and stand a better chance with a VFD spindle kit. Even then, I would stick with 303 stainless. Heat is your other big enemy with stainless. It will work harden very quickly if you cant keep the temperatures under control.
Thanks everyone for the replies. This is a great forum, a big help!
I have some ideas for milling stainless and high carbon steel but those aren’t essential, they’re just my personal side projects. I’ll hold off until I gain more knowledge and confidence.
What will make me money is aluminum so as long as I can do that I’m really happy. I’ll just be milling out extremely basic large shapes, nothing intricate. I need accuracy that looks pleasing to the eye. I’m not sure what kind of tolerances I can achieve with the machine dialed in, or what is required for a clean look.
Looking forward to getting started with the machine! Hopefully in the next few days.
