Shapeoko 5 to flatten end-grain cutting board

Hello all,

I’m sorry if this is such a noob question, I am getting started. I plan on making end-grain cutting boards for family, friends (not really thinking about selling yet). I have a Dewalt planer but it looks like the S5 Pro will do a good job of flattening a cutting board post glue-up.

I have seen others use a drum sander but that means added cost and space. If I plan on making roughly 3 cutting boards a month, could I get away with a orbital sander post CNC flattening? I’m just wondering how much time and efficiency do I gain with a drum sander vs ROS.

Thank you in advance.

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A drum sander is usually described as the ultimate (as in last-to-be-purchased) tool for a woodshop, and quite an indulgence.

With a suitable toolpath (the Facing toolpath in Carbide Create Pro) or one manually drawn up:

a project should require minimal sanding/post-processing — for my part, I just use:

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@CCIE8030

My answer is the drum sander is faster and provides a more consistent finish. However, a ROS works perfectly fine as well. It’s up to you and your space/shop configuration. Start with a good ROS as Will points out above and then “IF” you decide to start selling the boards in volume your time savings to slide them thru the drum sander pays off.

This may seem hard to believe but my drum sander is my favorite tool in the shop! It is typically the last tool used on finished surfaces and #400 grit does absolute magic.

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Interesting, I have seen other posts that claim that higher grit for Drum sanders don’t normally work out well. Which Drum sander do you own?

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I have the SuperMax 19-38 (about 5 years old at this point). You have to be careful when using the higher grits. You need to have excellent dust extraction and take extremely light passes. But the finish is smooth as glass especially on hardwoods. Most of the #400 grit is for finish sanding box top and picture frames and if not for the grain giving away the direction change at the miter the joint disappears. This of course assumes the joints are tight to begin with which is possible with a miter sled for the table saw and your clamping process dialed in.

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thank you for the feedback. This maybe in my radar in the future

Depending on your planer cutters (knife vs carbide helical etc.) it’s easier and more precise to use the drum sander with #60-#80 grit to get to a final thickness based on a specific project, this alleviates a potential chip out especially when there are perpendicular grain faces.

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Check out the oscillating drum sanders. I have a Jet 16-32 oscillating but am going to upgrade to the 22-42 oscillating. The oscillating versions leave less sanding marks.

But to answer your question you can flatten cutting boards. Be sure that you use a sharp bit and very small stepovers and depth of cut each time. End grain doesn’t like to be cut. You risk a blowout. hence why people prefer drum sanders.

End grain is the hardest thing for flattening. End grain is extremely hard and every tool will have problems. Planners tend to tear out end grain cutting boards. A CNC will work but you have to have the tram dead on or you will still do a lot of sanding. I have a Jet 1632 drum sander and love it. It is expensive compared to other methods of flattening but works best.

A cnc would get you more or less flat but you will still be sanding.

FYI many people are finding that wooden and plastic cutting boards have draw backs about bacteria and plastic with injesting micro plastics. The best cutting boards seem to be titanium but those are not as beautiful as wooden cutting boards.

From a google search about wooden cutting boards.

AI Overview

Wooden cutting boards, while aesthetically pleasing and gentle on knives, can present some hygiene and maintenance challenges. They are porous and can absorb liquids and food particles, potentially harboring bacteria and leading to foodborne illnesses if not properly cleaned and maintained. Additionally, they can be prone to developing knife cuts and grooves, making thorough cleaning more difficult.

Here’s a more detailed look at the problems:

Hygiene and Bacteria:

Wood’s porous surface can absorb liquids and food debris, creating a breeding ground for bacteria if not thoroughly cleaned and dried.

If not properly sanitized, bacteria from raw meat or other foods can transfer to other foods, leading to potential health risks.

Regular use can cause knife cuts and grooves, which can trap food particles and bacteria, making it harder to sanitize effectively.

Maintenance and Durability:

  • Difficult Cleaning:

Wooden boards require more careful cleaning than plastic boards and should not be put in the dishwasher or left to soak.

  • Susceptible to Warping:

Exposure to excessive moisture or heat can cause wood to warp or crack, affecting its stability and lifespan.

  • Staining:

Some woods can stain easily, especially from red foods like dragon fruit or beets.

  • Weight:

Good quality wooden cutting boards can be quite heavy, making them difficult to move and store.

Other Considerations:

  • Allergies:

Some individuals may have allergies or sensitivities to certain types of wood or extractives from wood.

  • Splintering:

In rare cases, wooden boards may develop splinters, which can be a concern, especially when used for food preparation.

Despite these challenges, wooden cutting boards can be a good choice if properly maintained:

  • Choose the right wood:

Hardwoods like maple, cherry, or walnut are generally more durable and less prone to absorbing liquids and harboring bacteria than softwoods.

  • Clean properly:

Wash with hot, soapy water after each use and sanitize with a bleach solution (1 teaspoon bleach per gallon of water) if necessary.

  • Dry thoroughly:

Allow the board to air dry completely after washing, and occasionally oil it with mineral oil or a board conditioner to help prevent warping and cracking.

This video demonstrates the proper way to clean a wooden cutting board:



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Jon,
my small shop has limited space, so a sander or a planer or a jointer were never an option. I use the shapeoko as a tool to flatten the surface of end grain cutting boards. The CIC Golden Girl is a beast when it comes to remove material. With really hard wood like Ebony I would not run the cutting depth of 1/4 inch as recommended by CIC but rather 1/8 inch per run, still goes fast. Of course that needs another run, now with a smoothening tool, like McFly here in the shop. Remove very little per run, not too slow speed and feed to avoid burning, needs a little playing. I even have a larger (1.5inch in diameter) surfacing bit. And use very small stepover. The surface looks like polished! There are some minimal traces, so some sanding will be recommended. But sanding takes away that polished look. It takes much longer than a band sander, but becomes very nice.
As described here I do not have problems tearing out fibers, I use cherry, Walnut, Maple, no oak (too porous for cutting boards). The edges may experience some tear outs, one can use some sacrificial piece of scrap wood on the edges to avoid this.
While the CNC works one can do different tasks, other than with using a drum sander. And: after both sides are done it is as parallel as can be.

If you have some ambition to make your own end grain boards: some work, very satisfying, and if you have access to scrap wood: excellent.

(I use CIC end grain boards for inlay cutting boards, these people make very, I mean really very nice end gain boards. They can be used as is. A baby butt is rough compared to what these people deliver.)

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I have made a few end grain cutting boards on my S5 Pro. As @gdon_2003 said getting well trammed is a must. I got a small surface plate and a tramming jig:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BXMRRKC

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GDD7WN

to get it dialed in. Then I use a flattening bit with carbide inserts followed by a ROS. Make sure your inserts are sharp as the end grain will dull them fairly quickly. You will want to wash the board between grits to get any dust build up in the pores out.

With regards to food safety I have heard that it comes down to how frequently the cutting board is used. Wooden cutting boards apparently maintain part of the trees natural immune system and as such actually kill bacteria over time. If the cutting board is getting used constantly like in restaurant it is best to go with a UHMW board as it can be easily sanitized with bleach. If however the cutting board is going to get used once, washed thoroughly, and then allowed to completely dry the wooden cutting board is supposed to be the better option.

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