am going to buy a 5Pro 2X4 and was wondering if anyone has any good pictures or drawings of their table. I want to build the table before I order the machine so I can set it up as it arrives. Any pics or good ideas would help a lot.
Thanks so much in advance
exciting new owner
I bought one 'cause it was on sale:
as noted, it has a bit of overhang at the back, but it works okay.
A similar option which is a bit less expensive:
Possibly workable (and a bit more comfortable in terms of surface area) is:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gladiator-Modular-66-5-in-W-x-38-75-in-H-Hardwood-Work-Bench/1000341801
The machine is structurally contained so any flat surface at your desired height will be fine.
I would put diagonal corner braces on the table legs to keep it from rocking.
Some people put a layer of heavy rubber/foam to suck up flatness issues and isolate noise.
@WillAdams knows the recommended table dimensions for the 2x4 unit.
Look for Pro 5 Tables in the Search , you will find a plethora of discussions and ideas.
I got something like this (at Lowes I think), drawers underneath for storage. Took the wheels off for stability. Mine also has a power strip along the side. Power and storage, Tim the Toolman would be proud.
So i went with a more traditional woodworking joint for the main frame. So that i could get more stability. Added some regidity and additional support using pocket hole screws. Its for a 4x4 table. Pine for the frame and maple for the base. Its a work in progress but its finished enough to put the machine on which should be here this week
The main joint is called a castle joint, good quality wood is needed to prevent cracking. As far as finish i did a prestain, a cherry stain and 4 coats of poly finish. Also went with 4 castor wheels with rathcheting pads on the bottom, this allows me to use the ratcheting pads to actually level the bed when stationary, which i dont plan on moving it much, but if i do want to cut and index a 8x4 i can rachet the wheels down and move the table easily.
I also built an L shaped computer desk/station. Both tables are exceptionally strong. Im proud of how they turned out considering ive only been doing woodworking for 4 months. Keep in mind these are designs that ive mixed and matched from what i have seen on youtube and other places. They are really out of my head and i have no plans or schematics.
Buy a Kreg workbench, 44" * 64" inch. Just bought my 4*2 Shapeoko 5 Pro. I got this workbench on sale for 299.99 at Canadian Tire. It was to small for my Shapeoko 5, I had to modify the bench. I am going to buy a
Kreg workbench when I have the money. Don’t cheap out and make you have the correct measurements. Since I just finished assembling mine, the 44" * 64" will fit just fine. I had my first successful test with the marker attachment. I would make sure you have the attachment for that marker to test out before making real projects, I am a beginner in cnc.
I second buying a Kreg Table. I’m currently using two 64"x44" for a 4’x4’ S5. Though the CNC will fit on one 64"x64" table. Using two layers of 3/4" plywood for the top (seams staggered).
I have a design I did for my 2 X 4 5Pro. in SolidWorks. I did a complete set of prints as well. Very solid base with a floating torsion box on top.
This one is pretty basic but it does the job and was made for a 2x4 SP5 Pro, built from what I had around. Only purchase was 4 Kreg heavy duty corner leg pieces and a bunch of 2x6 and 2x4’s for the decks, topped with 3/4 ply and 3/4 melanine. I made it big enough to have space inside it to set down tools, bits, etc. There’s also a center adjustable support to the ground to remove any flex from the table. Then wrapped the whole thing in a diy t-slot and 1/4 plexi box enclosure, I made it tall enough to not hit my head while working in there. After weather proofing the doors and seams and soundproofing the non plexi walls it’s remarkably quiet while running.
This is an old configuration, I’ve modified it a bit since this picture including swapping to an air cooled, 80mm, 3hp spindle and different VFD, additional roof bracing, guard around the e-stop to not accidently hit it, etc. The hose is attached to a v slot gantry plate on a roof cross member I added so it can slide front to back to follow the spindle.
It works well, theres a couple things I’d change but this is nice and contained and you can work in the part of the shop that it’s in without getting annoyed with the noise. Cleanup is a breeze, turn on the dust collector and just use the hose that goes to the spindle. I keep a brushed hose end in there and just attach it to the fitting.
The side plexi “walls” are two per side overwide plexi sheets in by-passing sliding door tracks to be able to open the sides to work on the machine, the back wall is 3/8 thick and held on by bolts so it’s also removable if needed. The sliding tracks are similar to the rockler ones but are just some I modelled and 3d printed. With weather seal in the grooves and on the panes where they bypass they keep in the noise and mess well.
Tables/enclosures don’t need to be rocket science, planned in a CAD program with printed, dimensioned drawings, that being said, here you go. I didn’t add all the dimensions, just the basic size and shape, the rest are pretty obvious from that though if anyone wants this for reference when planning their own table/enclosure.
Nice construction, thanks for the reply.
That is awesome. Thanks
I used 80/20 extrusion 1530 series and aluminum angle, did away with the 3 rails replacing them with1530. Underneath the table i added a husky 46" x 18" tool chest that is on sale at home depot for black friday. I am in the process of making base plates from 3/4" cast aluminum plates, that will have a grid of m6 tapped holes spaced 20mm apart to use saunders machine works m6 hobby vises.
My table uses some 80x20 aluminum, too. I’ll show it off soon, but I’ll admire yours in the meantime
That plywood is pretty
how do you go about letting air in? is the suction effected?
