i want to make a t track system for my shapeoko 3. i dont own a table saw, is there a place to buy mdf strips?
I just used PVC lumber for filler strips, so they only needed to be cut to length:
which is easily done with a miter box and a hand saw, or, one can start by machining the holes/countersinks, then screw them down in a stack and cut them to length on the machine.
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is there a standard “T Track” profile to buy
There are different heights and sizes of t-track. You would want the t-track to be below the surface of your spoilboard so you can surface the spoilboard without cutting into the t-track.
I did a quick search and here is one companies t-track offerings.
Personally I dont like t-track for my Shapeoko. I use a threaded spoilboard on my SO3 XXL with a long L bracket for a fence and cam clamps. I do occassionally use the tiger and gator clamps but mostly use cam clamps in combination with the L bracket.
I purposely made my spoilboard smaller than the maximum cutting area on the SO3 so I can surface the whole top. Before tiling a ridge in the back was not a big deal but if you are going to tile you need a smooth flat surface all the way to the back edge.
Here are my .c2d files for XXL and XL spoilboards and the L bracket and cam clamps. Just look over files to change your setup for your preferences. If you install the t-tracks you can still use the L bracket and/or cam clamps just modify the distance between your t-tracks.
optomized_xxl_spoilboard_03082021.c2d (628 KB)
optimized_xl_wasteboard_03162021.c2d (680 KB)
These files were created with v6 of CC but I opened them in v7 and saved them.
long_L_bracket.c2d (296 KB)
When using the long L bracket bolt it down loosely and jog your router with a bit over and move it left and right to get the L bracket lined up with your router to be square to it. Then bolt it down with 1/4-20 bolts. Just measure your bolts so they are not too long. If they bottom out on the base board it will rise up your spoilboard making it uneven. After surfacing always check if your bolts are too long before cutting a project to make sure they are not too long. I used 1/4-20 5/16" long tee nuts so I can surface my spoilboard many times before replacement. I place the newly machined spoilboard on the base board and drill 4 1/4" holes and then mark on the baseboard where the holes are. Then drill out for 1/4-20 brass threaded inserts to hold your spoilboard down. I countersink the heads of the flat head 1/4-20 screws so I can surface without hitting the tops of the flat head screws.
If you use t-tracks or a threaded spoilboard if you use bottom of material in the setup of your material in CC you will scar up your spoilboard less often than using top of material. By using bottom of material I dont have onion skin left at the bottom or cut through and scar up my spoilboard. Just remember they call it a spoilboard because it eventually gets spoiled and needs periodic replacement. The use of painters tape and super glue works well for holding down projects big or small.
I agree. I once had t-tracks, but they never seemed to be in the right spot. And traditional t-track clamps like those shown below were always in the way and a collsion risk. I’ve since switched to a threaded spoilboard and low-profile homemade clamps made from thin wood.
I have t-tracks on my drill press table because the drill bit is in a fixed spot and does not move around like on our CNCs. I once bought a used SO3 XL that had the C3D t-track kit (no longer sold). I removed them and put a threaded spoilboard. One of the forum members wanted them so I sent them to New Mexico for the postage.
Not sure if Ed is still using them.
The same problems with the t-tracks haunt the hybrid spoilboards on the newer C3D machines. But that is why there are red, green, blue and other color cars. If you like the t-tracks great, if you dont like them great. Between painters tape and superglue, the cam clamps, the tiger and gator clamps I am set.
Yup, still using them @gdon_2003. They’re about to turn 4 years old in a couple months.
The last set of MDF strips I made were undercut with a relief to accommodate the top edge of the t track. That added a little more strength to the t track mounting. My older S3 uses the original particle board base board with the MDF strips and t track screwed into it.
The nuts in the t tracks are the C3D Teez-Nutz after they were resized on the S3.
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Guy,just a quick question,what is the distance you use for your t nuts,I have mine set at 50 mm,I think I might bring that down to 45 for the next board.Also are all your t nuts square to the router or do you use the fence to adjust for square?
I am old school so I use 2". Any spacing you want is ok. The 2" works and when my material is just too close or too far away for the 2" spacing I have some 1" oak boards I use to squash between the material and the cam clamps. Because I use the L bracket that is squared to the router before securing it my material is usually square to the router.
when I machine the spoilboard it will be flipped 180 degrees because I am machining the bottom of the spoilboard. I square up to the front of my SO3 steel frame. When I flip it I move it 1/2" away from the front frame using my calipers. Because my frame happens to be square to the router. So when I flip it you can just let the spoilboard sit there and jog your router over with a bit and jog it down to a 1/4" hole. Then jog left/right and check at the other end. Jog back and forth a few times because if you have to adjust the spoilboard position it might pivot the other end. When you have your 1/4" holes lines up mark your 4 corner positions and use a drill to mark your holes for your threaded inserts to fasten the spoilboard down to the base board. Because the 1/4" holes were square to the router when you machined the spoilboard it will be lined up with the jogging and adjustment of the spoilboard position.
Thanks Guy,I am about to make another spoil board and lining it up to the front rail is what I will do
I just replaced my spoil board and added in 3 more t-tracks. Now I’ve learned a lot more about my C3 xxl. 1) all t-tracks are not the same height or same screws. 2) I knew my spoil board was not perfectly flat in relation to spindle, I didn’t realize how off it was. 3) don’t forget to hang the spindle pwr cord up. 4) All the cheap clamps from amazon assume your T-Track is flush with your surface 5) I probably could have used 1/2" MDF and 6) If you are going to flaten your spoil board much remember your working area is not the entire base. 7) Sanding MDF is dusty work !!
** Here’s a picture. Black spot is where I cut the pwr cord making grid. Leftover T-Track pieces to use as stop blocks. Some blocks I made from a 3/4"x2" strip of oak from a table I threw out 18 years Ago. New 1/4" and 5/16" screws I made by grinding some Lag Bolts down for t-tracks.
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