The double-sided tape thread

Is that because it fouls the bit?

I’ve done that, that can be a problem.

That’s annoying, but a soak in GooGone fixes it. The real issue is that it will basically embed adhesive on your workpiece. Depending on material and grain direction, that can be a nightmare.

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Oh ya. Don’t cut through the Shurtape or the 3M. They will foul your tool, grab chips, mess up the workpiece surface, and the tool may break.

That pretty much goes for any adhesive mount, though, including the blue tape and superglue. It is the pressure-mount adhesive. About the only pure adhesive mount that ISN’T an issue is straight superglue, and well cured Scotch77, which I won’t use for workholding due to the volatile load- stinks, flamable, and can haze surfaces if not properly vented- although some people will. Never been a fan of slow-cure, permanent adhesives like epoxy for workholding, so I have never really gone there.

3m 467mp an Interesting option - how is the 467mp residue cleanup?

Is anyone having success getting the tape to stick to a surfaced MDF spoilboard properly?

If so which tape please?

I threaten to derail the thread - 3M 2093EL blue masking tape holds well for me on MDF - its usually the CA glue that gives up first.

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On most surfaces I work with (HDPE, acetyl/POM, Nylon, aluminum, many other high to medium surface energy polymers and metals, many types of non-oily wood when sufficient surface contact can be made) not a big deal. It is an acrylic adhesive. Ok on many low surface energy materials if there is sufficient surface area and good contact, and removes easily in those cases.

I don’t use it with acrylics. Not necessarily a problem, but when it holds too well and chemical removal is needed, part damage may occur. Fortunately, my other preferred is quite compatible with acrylics, and other materials where removal of the 467MP can be problematic, as there are solvent solutions that don’t harm the part. Hence, my choices.

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Double sided or the making tape you use with CA glue? The XFasten double sided sticks to MDF well.

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Would it make sense to apply some sort of sealer to the surfaced spoil board?

I have no idea - I would guess the sealer would cause the MDF to swell in some way so that may not be conducive to flatness. Haven’t tried it myself.


I use Duck carpet tape that I get for $3.98 at Menards. I honestly didn’t think it would work when I started doing this in 2016, but after using the expensive stuff from woodworking stores, I decided to give it a shot. It works great for me on the MDF spoil board that I have. I usually have to pry the piece off with a chisel on one corner to break it loose. This stuff is really thin, but again, holds up very well for me.


I’ve used carpet tape for templates for hand-held and router-table use and it is pretty strong stuff.


I highly recommend this tape. It is not the cheapest option but it leaves no residue, holds tight, and is easy to peel off backing.

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Thanks, I picked up a roll of that and used it today, it actually stuck to my surfaced MDF well enough for me to kerf cut the 3.2mm thick plywood on top of it to the correct depth.

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I use sealed and unsealed spoilboards. I’ve observed that the 3M blue sticks better (twice as hard to peel off) to the sealed surface. Sealer I use is multiple coats of shellac.

That said, I’ve never lost a part as a result of tape or CA failure on un-sealed or sealed surfaces. I have plenty of other ways to screw them up haha.


I’ll second the shellac. I applied two coats after my last resurfacing and wouldn’t consider skipping it in the future. Blue tape and the dreaded double sided tape both adhere very well, but most importantly they don’t take off the top layer of the spoil board when you remove them. The spoil board remains smooth instead of getting fuzzy. Well worth the few minutes to make your spoil board last longer between resurfacings.


When I’m using double-sided tape, I use Nitto (Permacel) P-02: Amazon link

It has a kraft paper carrier and holds well overall. Needs somewhat more surface area for a secure hold than blue tape + CA glue, but requires fewer steps to apply. Cutting into it will gum your tool up, which depending on its diameter will net you less than ideal results.

It’s expensive but one roll has lasted me a good long time. I consider it better suited for PCB milling, or other situations where you’re unlikely to cut through the work completely.

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Does cutting into the painter’s tape used in the tape + super glue method gum up cutters?

I don’t try to cut into the tape, but it happens. When it does, I’ve noticed some tape on the cutter, but it doesn’t “gum up” anything any more than an MDF buildup does. I just clean it off.

Just keep in mind that the two layers of tape with a glue layer can add over 0.010" to the thickness of the part. That doesn’t matter unless you are Z-zeroing to the wasteboard (or you haven’t used the measured thickness of your part in your gcode.)


The goal is to get the Z-zero so you just don’t quite hit the tape. :slight_smile: If you do hit the tape it pretty much chops up into small pieces and some residue gets left on the end mill which wipes off quite easily.

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