The double-sided tape thread

What do you guys use for double-sided tape?

When I’m not using the masking tape + Super-glue method, I’ve been using Spectape.

Sometimes I wouldn’t mind something just a tad thicker.

What do you guys like, and why?

If I’m doing something quick or I’m not going to cut through the tape, I use XFasten double sided tape. Strong hold, easy to remove, pretty cheap. Just don’t cut through it.

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3m 467MP adhesive (no backer… only the adhesive transfers. Also called a glue. Strong stuff) Dead consistent thickness. Great for precision fixturing when there isn’t as much surface area as one might like. Acrylic adhesive. No carrier makes it a bit prone to doubleing up on itself, and if it does, gotta remove it and do it again or the bond ill be compromised. Awesome when fixturing odd parts, since the thickness is precise and can be compensated in machining the fixture, even if there are complex curves. It will work with non-developable surfaces (spherical, Mobius strip, etc), as long as the maximum surface curvature isn’t too great.

Shurtape DP-401 holds really well, a bit thicker, comes off easier. Consistent, strong hold, consistent thickness, less expensive. Synthetic rubber adhesive. Needs a bit more surface area, but less fussy than the 467MP, and less likely (due to to the carrier) to double-up on itself. Needs flat (or simple, developable) surfaces.

Is that because it fouls the bit?

I’ve done that, that can be a problem.

That’s annoying, but a soak in GooGone fixes it. The real issue is that it will basically embed adhesive on your workpiece. Depending on material and grain direction, that can be a nightmare.

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Oh ya. Don’t cut through the Shurtape or the 3M. They will foul your tool, grab chips, mess up the workpiece surface, and the tool may break.

That pretty much goes for any adhesive mount, though, including the blue tape and superglue. It is the pressure-mount adhesive. About the only pure adhesive mount that ISN’T an issue is straight superglue, and well cured Scotch77, which I won’t use for workholding due to the volatile load- stinks, flamable, and can haze surfaces if not properly vented- although some people will. Never been a fan of slow-cure, permanent adhesives like epoxy for workholding, so I have never really gone there.

3m 467mp an Interesting option - how is the 467mp residue cleanup?

Is anyone having success getting the tape to stick to a surfaced MDF spoilboard properly?

If so which tape please?

I threaten to derail the thread - 3M 2093EL blue masking tape holds well for me on MDF - its usually the CA glue that gives up first.

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On most surfaces I work with (HDPE, acetyl/POM, Nylon, aluminum, many other high to medium surface energy polymers and metals, many types of non-oily wood when sufficient surface contact can be made) not a big deal. It is an acrylic adhesive. Ok on many low surface energy materials if there is sufficient surface area and good contact, and removes easily in those cases.

I don’t use it with acrylics. Not necessarily a problem, but when it holds too well and chemical removal is needed, part damage may occur. Fortunately, my other preferred is quite compatible with acrylics, and other materials where removal of the 467MP can be problematic, as there are solvent solutions that don’t harm the part. Hence, my choices.

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Double sided or the making tape you use with CA glue? The XFasten double sided sticks to MDF well.

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Would it make sense to apply some sort of sealer to the surfaced spoil board?

I have no idea - I would guess the sealer would cause the MDF to swell in some way so that may not be conducive to flatness. Haven’t tried it myself.


I use Duck carpet tape that I get for $3.98 at Menards. I honestly didn’t think it would work when I started doing this in 2016, but after using the expensive stuff from woodworking stores, I decided to give it a shot. It works great for me on the MDF spoil board that I have. I usually have to pry the piece off with a chisel on one corner to break it loose. This stuff is really thin, but again, holds up very well for me.


I’ve used carpet tape for templates for hand-held and router-table use and it is pretty strong stuff.


I highly recommend this tape. It is not the cheapest option but it leaves no residue, holds tight, and is easy to peel off backing.

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Thanks, I picked up a roll of that and used it today, it actually stuck to my surfaced MDF well enough for me to kerf cut the 3.2mm thick plywood on top of it to the correct depth.

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I use sealed and unsealed spoilboards. I’ve observed that the 3M blue sticks better (twice as hard to peel off) to the sealed surface. Sealer I use is multiple coats of shellac.

That said, I’ve never lost a part as a result of tape or CA failure on un-sealed or sealed surfaces. I have plenty of other ways to screw them up haha.


I’ll second the shellac. I applied two coats after my last resurfacing and wouldn’t consider skipping it in the future. Blue tape and the dreaded double sided tape both adhere very well, but most importantly they don’t take off the top layer of the spoil board when you remove them. The spoil board remains smooth instead of getting fuzzy. Well worth the few minutes to make your spoil board last longer between resurfacings.


When I’m using double-sided tape, I use Nitto (Permacel) P-02: Amazon link

It has a kraft paper carrier and holds well overall. Needs somewhat more surface area for a secure hold than blue tape + CA glue, but requires fewer steps to apply. Cutting into it will gum your tool up, which depending on its diameter will net you less than ideal results.

It’s expensive but one roll has lasted me a good long time. I consider it better suited for PCB milling, or other situations where you’re unlikely to cut through the work completely.

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