Hi all,
I am trying to set up a cut with 2 tiles. Pretty straight forward cuts.
My understanding is the following:
Thanks,
Mani
Sounds about right, see:
Could not really tell from this video if he had 2 files.
he had 2 groups set up
Usually what folks do is create the initial design file:
Then enable and set up tiling:
and save out each tile as a separate file:
using appropriate filenames, e.g.,
CC_nomad_tiling_test_8x8_tile_n_of_y.nc
where n is replaced by the tile number and y by the total number of tiles.
Thanks will.
Like Kevin says, sometimes, you just need to try this out.
just one more…
the y0 for 2nd tile will be the top of tile 1 (or where the ile 1 cut ends in y direction), correct?
Adjusted by the overlap, yes.
The advance is the tile size.
I have only done tiling once but I wrote about what I did. I think the most important thing is making a side fence and then trim that perfectly square.
CarbideCreate_Tiling.pdf (1.5 MB)
There’s additional guidance in this video:
@mtvannan I will also tell you that you need to come up with a way to assure that your zero has not moved between tiles. I have found (and I have a belt-driven s03, so that might be why) that my ‘x’ moves a couple of hundredths of an inch … enough to create an uneven transition on straight lines that cross the tiles…which drive me nuts. I have recommended a registration method using a hole in a dead-area of the design to allow you to make sure you’re lined up perfectly before cutting the rest of the tile - if you’re interested, I’ll find the link.
Thank you Guy Donham for creating this document, it was incredibly helpful and allowed me to knock out my tiling project in one try.
Gary I would be interested to see your process for this!
The trick is, what comes a little short in that video, that you indeed need to save two files for each project, one for each tile.
First you have your project as one piece xyz.c2d, then you define the tiles, lets say, you use 2 tiles.
When you arrive at that stage
when you arrive here
Then you place the stock at the machine with stock xyz zero at project xyz zero, load xyz_tile1.c2d into carbid motion, and cut it.
When done, move your project -without changing any values in carbide motion!- to the new y-value, do not change the x-value, and cut xyz_tile2.c2d. The more precisely that positioning is done the smoother the project.
So yes, you need a separate file for each tile. All together you have 3 files (if you have 2 tiles) for that project.
I just saw this request. I’m about to do a project with tiling - I’ll write up something here when I get those files created and show you what I do…
@henryhkcrete OK…Here’s the technique I use.
First…the goal is to create a cut out number that’s about 40" tall. My XXL has a bed around 31", so I will be tiling the number.
Here’s the layout:
Now, I want to create a reference spot in a throw-away zone on the design. In this case, I’m choosing to put it into the center of the zero, the part that will be cut away.
I create a 28" rectangle and align it to the center-bottom of the design so I can position my reference circle:
Now to cutting…
I have a fence along the left side of my wasteboard which is perfectly in line with the gantry path (I created it by cutting it with the gantry). I’m going to register the left side of my workpiece flush against that fence and zero against the lower left corner. My fence has a mark at the lower left, that I’m going to use as zero. I’m also going to mark my workpiece along its left edge, 28" up from the lower left, so that I can realign as close as possible when I reposition the workpiece between tiles.
OK…the first cut will cut the reference hole, and then cut the bottom tile:
Then, I realign my workpiece, keeping the left edge along the fence and align the 28" mark of the workpiece to the zero mark on my fence. This is to try to get as close as possible to zero — but my experience is that it’s never quite right…and that’s why I take the next step:
I load up the second job (the Top Tile). The first step of the second job is to re-drill the reference hole (which was already drilled during the bottom tile cutting). What I do, is I watch very closely as the bit descends into the already cut hole…and I Pause the job and then stop it. I then manually jog the bit down into the hole. If it fits, wonderful…I start the job (from the beginning again)…it recuts air in the hole and then cuts the rest of the top tile.
However, if it isn’t exactly aligned in the hole, I jog to make it fit exactly - KEEPING TRACK OF HOW FAR I HAVE TO GO. Then, I’ll go to the zero dialog, move the gantry to current XY zero and then move the gantry to make the adjustments to zero, based on what I had to do to get the hole to align. That is basically the negative value of X and Y needed to get into the hole perfectly. (i.e., if I had to 10x and 3y, then I will move zero -10x and -3y). Then I reset the XY zeros to that new spot. Then I start the job and let it go…it plunges perfectly into the hole and then cuts the top tile perfectly (every time).
It’s a little bit of extra time and work…but, I have never had luck with just tiling by alignment…it’s often 1/16 of an inch or so off…and that, unfortunately, breaks the visual lines of the transition. It may not be enough to bother everyone, but it bothers me…and sometimes, if there are a lot of cuts running across the tilling transition space, you can get a ripple effect (or a moiree effect) that is quite noticeable. This technique eliminates that.
I think it’s worth the extra time.
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