Did you also calibrate for belt-stretch?
Note that there are a couple of approaches here:
- use the machine as-is — this works fine for signage and single-part projects
- calibrate for belt-stretch and call it good — this works fine for wood joinery in my experience, and may work okay for most other projects (it allowed me to make a largish adapter plate for my machine twice now)
- cut all parts oversize with a roughing clearance, measure, then adjust the file based on the measurements and then cut — note that this requires deferring an internal holes/features until after measurements are dialed in and one is confident of getting them cut correctly
- have a spreadsheet with a grid which contains the offset of every point significant to how the current part is to be cut — adjust the file based on that before cutting — if I understand correctly, @RichCournoyer works in a fashion similar to that
I’m at the second bullet-point, and most customers stop at the first.