Waste table thoughts

This is my first post… I am going to make a t track wasteboard this weekend, and I want to know anyones input on a few things. I am trying to decide how to mount the t track. Either im going to take off the factory wasteboard, and drill holes and mount the track directly (opposite) to the steel ribs that go along the bottom. Then add 3/4 MDF in between and bolt that to the ribs too. Or… I will take the factory wasteboard and the ribs and mount them from the bottom of the machine unstead of on top of the flange. Then mount the track and sections of MDF to the existing MDF and drill through the ribs. My thought is that this will add more rigidity to the surface. But im concerned that maybe it will just add too much weight.

On another note, I found what I think is a good deal on T Track at Fastenall… $32 for 145" of nice heavy duty track…


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Great price on the T-track! Not sure how I missed that Fastenal had that (wikied: https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Workholding#T-slot ) Note that it doesn’t seem to have holes, and apparently wants some sort of anchor to hold it in place from the ends (I think this is a standard 80/20 part).

I wouldn’t worry about weight unless you’re like me and have to move the machine on a recurring basis (mine has to go up from the basement out to the back deck or carport to cut ipe and the like)

Swapping the original wasteboard is a neat idea (did that on my SO2), but a little more complex now with the PEM nuts — careful that they won’t pull out.

I just added a sheet of MDF w/ the T-track screwed to it: https://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=8332&p=65068#p65068 — seemed a reasonable compromise between convenience, material usage, and modification.

Yeah, I dont think it has holes. Thats ok though, I will cut my sections, then just run it through my drill press. I plan to go all the way through the metal bracing so That should hold quite nicely.

I may just add it to the current wasteboard like you suggest. I was thinking of dropping the orig MDF lower so I dont loose 3\4 inch of potential Z axis travel. If I move the Board under the table I will probably get some nuts to put on the top of the flange to make sure those PEM nuts dont pop off (im sure they probably would).

Thats interesting that you didnt screw down your PVC sections. I suppose it does not need to be… How has that worked for you so far?

No problems — clamping has been secure enough, and they’re not so slippery that they want to shift.

Actually, you want to lose the vertical travel unless you’re going to be working with thick stock (which will take some other adjustments) — the machine has a limited Z travel, and you need to set springs, router placement, &c. to accommodate that.

I’d recommend Orange Aluminum t-track

and I’d suggest routing grooves in a base-board to mount the track in, then mount the base board using the same holes as you would with the regular stock MDF board. Here’s the board I did, installed without the track yet:

And here’s something clamped in the Nomad vise installed on the track:

And here’s a much larger project in the process of getting clamped down as well, on top of a sacrificial waste board:


Also, if there’s market demand, I wouldn’t mind making my t-track base available for purchase. It gets mounted under the frame to make sure there’s enough area for a sacrificial material layer without losing usable z-height, and it also increases the stability of the machine by contacting along the full length of the front,back, center strap and side rails.

It’d work out about ~$175 + shipping for a kit of pre-cut track, fasteners, and pre-routed base-panel.

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That is super-nice work, UnionNine!