After I get a replacement motor for my table saw … I plan on making some larger bowls 
but a proofing bowl would be fun.
First word that popped into mind is “WOW”.
That looks amazing.
Great Job!
What is your software of choice? Is this the same software you will use shifting over to guitar building?
For this I used Moment of Inspiration. Moi3d.com. I am going to buy the license once my trial rings out. I have RHINO3D but it’s the version 6. Not sure I want to drop the $500 to upgrade
I have a bunch of leaning I still need to do before I decide to do the guitars but I might try MOI3D. My goal with building a guitar is that I can make the body less boring ;). Add some interesting embellishments.
Basically just making this up as I go…
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Great map from a fellow east sider
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My second venture with layering engravings on faux ivory with colored India inks. The process is getting cleaner and more defined, this one took nine passes. The oval is about 120 mm (4.5 inches) wide.
Here’s a crop to show the engraving lines.
[I have posted far more detail about the process in the Gallery for the first of these: Dragonfly Tidytip Engraving]
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Been on a story line for mirror finishes. I used this end mill for this finish, As far as I know you can only get it from spike from cncrouterinfo.com. If intrested he can be gotten ahold of on his discord CNCZONE.
Smooth as glass
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Sup guys. Nomad gang checking in with something a little different. I machined an injection mold out of aluminum.
These are a portion of a design. I wanted to check the fit of a motor in the webbing before committing to the whole thing. Injected with buster beagle mk3. Abs. Smallest tool 0.5mm. no polishing.
I used 3d printed soft jaws to hold the first half. Around 8 hours of milling and they still held up. PLA+.
On the second half they deformed from the heat and the spindle threw it off and trashed it. Had to bite the bullet and mill a v cutout on the flip side of my existing jaws to do it again, the right way. Considering the jaws were 3d printed, I was still impressed they lasted that long. Would recommend for short jobs in a pinch, especially if you’re cutting something less conducive to heating up.
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My wife wanted a door decoration for “The largest, three-day Irish festival in the world” which occurs around the corner from our house.
This is all 1/4" PVC. Painted superglued to the white background. About 23" wide.
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Nice work! 
Curious, for alignment did you cut recesses in the white background for the green layer to sit into?
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Nope. Made a glue template. I use these often for alignment. I just make sure I have an edge and a reference for the individual pieces. I was less careful with this than I am with text or something that the eye will notice when it’s slightly off.
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I have learned to always be showing off your work ;). I was at a local dive shop, small business, and we were chatting. I commented on his metal signs he had made up. I said. Now you just need one carved out of wood. He said, of only I knew someone that could make something. I pulled out my phone and showed him one I made the week before to which he responded I need one.
Well here it is but wait there is more… someone was in the shop when I showed it to him before finishing it and they want one now 
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Well tell us how you did it. Or if a Rick and Morty fan “Show us what you got”.
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Please, pics of such a wonderful thing!
I cannot see the pictures. The hyperlink is not active.
How much are those insert face mills? I would love to try one with some PCD inserts
I payed 19.95 for the indexable endmill itself and 14.50 for 10 polished kyocera inserts.
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Cullen I work with epoxy inlaid wood regularly. My planer is a spiral cutter and has no problem cutting epoxy. However…. It’s actually less work if you use a heat gun like you’d get at a craft store. A hear gun and a spatula gets the expoxy off with no wood loss. Then a quick orbital sanding and final coat of poly and you’re done!
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I haven’t been using the planer as it seems too violent. I have used a 1/4” cutter to remove most and then sand for the final bit.
Are you saying you use the heat gun to remove excess after it has cured? Seems like that would make a mess and not be able to differentiate between excess and the desired epoxy.
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