How much are those insert face mills? I would love to try one with some PCD inserts
I payed 19.95 for the indexable endmill itself and 14.50 for 10 polished kyocera inserts.
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Cullen I work with epoxy inlaid wood regularly. My planer is a spiral cutter and has no problem cutting epoxy. However…. It’s actually less work if you use a heat gun like you’d get at a craft store. A hear gun and a spatula gets the expoxy off with no wood loss. Then a quick orbital sanding and final coat of poly and you’re done!
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I haven’t been using the planer as it seems too violent. I have used a 1/4” cutter to remove most and then sand for the final bit.
Are you saying you use the heat gun to remove excess after it has cured? Seems like that would make a mess and not be able to differentiate between excess and the desired epoxy.
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I’ve been playing around with the Stingray cutter, making stencils for canvas and tshirts. Really pleased with the stingray:
Mylar stencils (6 layers) and spray paint on canvas
Freezer paper stencils and spray bleach
Full process here:
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Finally got this finished and out a couple of days ago. I have a football field cribbage board that I do that looks a lot like my hockey rink one I showed off here.
The football one is the same size and shape but I got asked to make it on live edge and change the storage for the cards and pegs. I love how this came out. I still want to get better at painting and finishing stuff like this but still really happy with it. The board is about 2 feet long.
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You painted the markings?. Looks very neat. You must have patience.
What’s the reason for what looks to me like a break in the cribbage board pattern at what i think is the start (i dont play cribbage)?
The markings are carved, then painted with a lot of over painting happening. Then I sand off everything that was painted outside the lines. It is not actually as impressive as it looks.
The extra holes between the start and finish are for marking games won.
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That’s really smart. I’ll have to remember that. Thanks for sharing!
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Thank you,
To my eye looks just great.
Just heat the parts that are overfilled and scrape. The heat doesnt go down that far and mostly I’m using it to remove it from the wood. It doesn’t melt fully - it’s like scraping paint off a window.
Very nice board! I especially like the peg and card holders.
SKOL VIKINGS!
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Hi Rob, can I please ask what your hold down table is and the vise you are using?
Cheers, Julian
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Brilliant, thank you.
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My third 2.5D carve. My wife and I watched an Owl at a local park for quite a while and she is a bit of a birder. I found an Owl STL file online that looked pretty good and a couple of hours later it was cut. It is cut from a remnant of 3/4 in. maple board. It’s small, about 5.5 x 6 inches. Created in V-Carve Pro and I used two finishing passes. One with a 1/8 in. ballnose endmill and then another with a 1.5 mm (just a little less than 1/16) It sure didn’t seem like like the smaller endmill cut much. Maybe an additional step or two creeped in when using the bitsetter. You can still see some of the grooves from the 1/8th in. endmill. Every cut is still a learning experience for me.
Not sure what I’m going to do for finishing. I’ll let my wife decide that, but some sanding of the grooves is in order.
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Amazing work John. Well done.
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SKOL…SKOL…SKOL
Think you’ll get past my Eagles this year?
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@KevBarn14 I wish I could give an answer that sounded like I knew what I was talking about. I don’t really follow NFL football so, sure? More of a hockey fan myself.
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